gundee Posted November 30, 2015 Share #37 Posted November 30, 2015 Does the car drive? Have you had it out on rough road and beat theheck out of it yet? What does it look like after that? Any noises or rubbing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted November 30, 2015 Share #38 Posted November 30, 2015 Thanks Meakin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbuczesk Posted November 30, 2015 Share #39 Posted November 30, 2015 Take some measurements of the strut assy that Zed Head circled. Check the length below and above the spring perch and compare left to right. You can reach up to the top to feel if the insulators feel like they're the same length. The 280Z insulator is noticeably longer. If all of that checks out then maybe the springs are different lengths and/or stiffness. Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossiz Posted November 30, 2015 Share #40 Posted November 30, 2015 the eibach springs i used are different lengths for the front vs. rear - and yes, i mixed them up during my install even though they are clearly marked... sometimes it pays to eliminate the easy, dumb mistakes first before going to big measures such as straightening the body (no shame in dumb mistakes - plenty of them here). just to be absolutely sure, i'd put the rear on jack stands under the frame rails, pull both rear wheels, remove both complete strut assemblies and compare them side by side to verify they are the same length and have the same isolators. you can do this without removing the control arms - disconnect the flexible brake lines and remove the half-shafts to let the hub drop down low enough to clear the mouth of the strut tower up inside the wheel well. then, with the struts removed, you can set the control arms level to the floor and measure up to the inside of the strut towers, which should verify that your body-to-wheel dimension is the same both sides. my gut tells me you'll find the problem in the struts - at least that is my hope for you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted November 30, 2015 Share #41 Posted November 30, 2015 I would think if there was that much twist in the frame and or body the gaps between the hatch to body & door to body wouldn't align. Your door alignment looks good. Can't see the hatch alignment. IMO the problem lies in the suspension. Any chance the rewelded mounts are in the wrong location? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Mann Posted November 30, 2015 Author Share #42 Posted November 30, 2015 Ok Tonights experiment. I placed the jack in front of the rear passenger tire and jacked up the body until it was level between the strut towers in the rear hatchback. I measured the same distance from the fenders to the floor. There was still an inch difference between tire clearance and the fenders. All tires still on the ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 30, 2015 Share #43 Posted November 30, 2015 Ok Tonights experiment. I placed the jack in front of the rear passenger tire and jacked up the body until it was level between the strut towers in the rear hatchback. I measured the same distance from the fenders to the floor. There was still an inch difference between tire clearance and the fenders. All tires still on the ground.What is the difference between the top of the fender wells on each side, with the strut towers level? We're trying to figure out if the body is square/level/copacetic with the strut towers. Have you confirmed that the tires are the same diameter? Fully inflated? Sorry, just can't see these things that are probably obvious if the car is right in front of you. Just missing a key point or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 30, 2015 Share #44 Posted November 30, 2015 Forgot to say that the floor needs to be level also, for the fender well measurements to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted November 30, 2015 Share #45 Posted November 30, 2015 This is what I mean. This number, both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Mann Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share #46 Posted December 1, 2015 25-1/4" to the floor. Both sides the same when the strut towers are leveled up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted December 1, 2015 Share #47 Posted December 1, 2015 If the car is level across the strut towers and the wheel arches both measure 25 1/4" to the floor on both sides, the problem is somewhere else. Recheck the spring locations like Rossiz suggests and check springs lengths at the same time like Chuck suggested. You're getting closer... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted December 1, 2015 Share #48 Posted December 1, 2015 25-1/4" to the floor. Both sides the same when the strut towers are leveled up.This is a what you wanted. A good thing. The steel-box of a body appears to be in good shape. The problem will be in a part or parts that can be unbolted and replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parman
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