Problems leveling my 240z

[Darren Mann]

It has to be the frame/body if the strut tubes measure the same top to bottom?  The Insulators both measure the same. 

[Zed Head]

In Post #48 your measurements showed that the strut tower tops were the same distance from ground and the tops of the fender wells.  Everything is where it should be.  Level strut tower tops, level ground, level fender well tops.

 

But your measurements in #69 with the tires hanging show a 1" difference side-to-side, even though the extended struts are the same length, imlpyng the body is 1" different side-to-side..  So you have two sets of measurements that differ by 1".  One shows everything is fine, the other shows a 1" difference.

 

The measurements with the car on the ground will always be suspect because you're not rolling the car.

 

Since you have the struts out, you could remove the springs and reinstall the struts.  Let the car sit on the bump stops or strut tube tops if you don't have bump stops.  Take a measurement with the suspension fully compressed.  Again, they'll be useless if you don't roll the car first.

 

Also, a bound up front strut can affect the opposite corner in the back.  The front end will sit higher also if you don't roll the car after lifting.

 

Just to reiterate - if you don't roll the car after lifting and setting it back down, you'll be wasting your time.  Good luck.  A shop might have some ideas, after all.

[Darren Mann]

When we had the car level and measured to the ground and the fenders were the same we still had an inch difference between the fenders and tires.  You suspected the tires were different size..  Do you recall?

[Zed Head]

25-1/4" to the floor.  Both sides the same when the strut towers are leveled up.

I do remember, but you just measured both tires at 23".

[FreshZ]

The level of a car is mostly determined by the quality and type of springs. The springs are what determine vehicle height, not shocks. If you question that, then ask yourself why springs are cut to lower cars instead of changing to shorter springs.

That said; worn out shocks can cause sag - a 1"sag? Possible I suppose.

Edited December 3, 2015 by FreshZ

[FreshZ]

One suggestion if you have the time, and want to try, is to swap the Left/Right side suspension and see if that creates the same lopsided height; just reversed now.

Edited December 3, 2015 by FreshZ

[ksechler]

One suggestion if you have the time, and want to try, is to swap the Left/Right side suspension and see if that creates the same lopsided height; just reversed now.

 

How are you going to do that?!

 

Personally I think this has gone on long enough.  Seems like there are enough conflicting measurements to completely muddy the issue.  Just take it to a body shop and have them check it out.  

[Darren Mann]

In Post #48 your measurements showed that the strut tower tops were the same distance from ground and the tops of the fender wells.  Everything is where it should be.  Level strut tower tops, level ground, level fender well tops.

 

But your measurements in #69 with the tires hanging show a 1" difference side-to-side, even though the extended struts are the same length, imlpyng the body is 1" different side-to-side..  So you have two sets of measurements that differ by 1".  One shows everything is fine, the other shows a 1" difference.

 

The measurements with the car on the ground will always be suspect because you're not rolling the car.

 

Since you have the struts out, you could remove the springs and reinstall the struts.  Let the car sit on the bump stops or strut tube tops if you don't have bump stops.  Take a measurement with the suspension fully compressed.  Again, they'll be useless if you don't roll the car first.

 

Also, a bound up front strut can affect the opposite corner in the back.  The front end will sit higher also if you don't roll the car after lifting.

 

Just to reiterate - if you don't roll the car after lifting and setting it back down, you'll be wasting your time.  Good luck.  A shop might have some ideas, after all.

 

 

After rolling the car back and forth it settled some but still the 2" difference.  1/2" clearance "fender to tire" on passenger side and 2-1/2" driver side

[FreshZ]

It will take a good methodical approach to detemine the issue: looking at each corner suspension component, connecting links, bars (along with a manual for the car) and see if every piece is in proper working rder.

[Darren Mann]

It will take a good methodical approach to detemine the issue: looking at each corner suspension component, connecting links, bars (along with a manual for the car) and see if every piece is in proper working rder.

 

I have replaced all struts on each corner and new Eibach springs.  All control arm bushings on all corners.  Front Stabilizer bushings are new.  Front wheel bearings.

 

Nothing has fixed this problem that was there before I started any work on the suspension.   We've measured the rear strut assemblies from top to bottom and they are the same.  240z insulators both sides.  Same size tires.

 

I will rent a spring compressor again this weekend and remove the new rear struts and see if they are the same size.  The one thing that seems really difficult to explain is that when raised off the ground there is still a 1" difference from side to side with wheels hanging and level across strut towers.  Then when lowered (and rolled)  ;-)  there's a 2" difference.  Why would more force be exhurted on that corner to push it down more.  Next week it's going to a body shop for them to look at the frame/body.  The more I look at it - The more it seems like there are problems related to an accident at play.  I understand people have said the doors line up well but the thing to remember is they were adjusted that way.  The hood was a challenge to get lined up.  So I don't think we can rule that out.  I just feel that the rearend is twisted.  Time will tell.  Thanks

[FreshZ]

Yeah take it step-by-step, and you'll get there. Keep us updated on what the body shop results show.

As far as forum talk; take the good with the bad and just keep working towards your goal. Everyone has an opinion, and just as unhelpful as some of the posts are, there are more helpful posts.

Edited December 4, 2015 by FreshZ

[Zed Head]

After rolling the car back and forth it settled some but still the 2" difference.  1/2" clearance "fender to tire" on passenger side and 2-1/2" driver side

All that I see left is a binding suspension system.  You've shown that the car is not warped or bent.  The struts are the same length.  Tires same size.  Put mose weight on the high side and see if it can even be forced down to a 1/2" gap.

 

As for Post #83, this isn't a forum for venting your frustrations.  You've done a crappy job of answering simple questions.  I spent many posts asking you just to roll the car (can't get much simpler than that) to be sure you were doing things right and you just glossed over it like it didn't matter.  I asked for three simple measurements and you came back with two of them and one from someone else's question.  So you've been all over the map with what you're doing.  It's frustrating to watch people ignore good advice.

 

So you screwed up with Post #83.  Probably lost a lot of good future advice, and you haven't even fixed the first problem.