Bringing back the RedZ

[Marty Rogan]

4 hours ago, 87mj said:

Can anyone explain what that dark stain is on his driver side front strut tower inside the engine bay?  I have the same color car and the same stains.  It wont come off. 

It's hard to tell from the picture, but my guess would be under-coating over spray.  Have you tried gasoline on it.  I believe that is what I used when I re-did my engine bay.  Be sure to wipe it down right away though.

 

Marty

[Mark Maras]

If it's not under coating and the paint is actually stained, I'd guess brake fluid. Possibly got there during a brake job. You know, master cylinder cap off, push the caliper pistons back, hear something odd. Oh crap! Now there is a mess all over the left side fender well & shock tower. Just a guess.  

[DaveR]

So, during the install of the AC unit at the start of the cars life, the dealer bent up the fuel supply and return hard lines, relocated the fuel filter and the other little housing. (see attached)

I am replacing the fuel hoses (5/16 and 3/32 respectively, getting them from datsunstore.com so I can get the right sizes without hassle... ) 

I would really like to bend the fuel lines back into place, so I can locate the pieces in their original locations. I am almost certain when I do so the fuel hard lines will break. So I am looking into other ways to connect to that line, assuming I will be left with a bare, unflared fuel line in 5/16 and 3/32 size. I would also like to leave the tube horizontal along the frame rail or only slightly bent vertical. If horizontal promotes leakage with the solutions I propose below, please make note of that.

Options that might be possible:
1) Hose clamp directly to the unflared end of the tubing.
2) Use stage one of double flaring tool to add a bit of a bulge to the end of the lines. (my flaring tool only goes down to 3/16 so I'm not sure how I would do the return line)
3) Use a compression fitting to lock to the tube, somehow find a threaded adapter to convert to a barbed hose connection (parts probably hard to find for 3/32 hose)
4) AN fittings?
5) Leave the hardlines untouched, do not relocate the parts, and have the fuel hoses loop around.

What would you guys recommend?

 

 

Edited January 21, 2016 by DaveR

[Zed Head]

I used a piece of "repair" tubing to plumb in a fuel rail.  45 degree single flares (SAE style) on the cut ends of the stock tubing.  Worked very well, no leaks.

Most stores have a large selection of lengths hanging behind the counter.  Buy a length of repair tubing and a flare fitting to match and you're ready to go.  Many stores have loaner flaring tools if you don't have your own.

Example:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/800156/N1650.oap?ck=Search_N1650_-1_-1&pt=N1650&ppt=C0290

The compression fitting shown would work also.  I had compression fittings blocking my CSV pipe on two old fuel rails.  36 psi isn't much, even 90 wouldn't be much for a compression fitting.

Edited January 21, 2016 by Zed Head

[Patcon]

I would bend them down flat. I would be surprised if they break. If they do you can add onto them with compression fittings, even make the junction in the tunnel so it doesn't show. You could put a hose on a square cut line. The carb system is running very low pressure, with a good hose clamp it will work fine. You cut flare a bulb in, even better, much over that is unnecessary

 

[DaveR]

I don't need to add any more length of hardline, if the line does end up breaking when I bend it.  For that reason I probably don't need a section like you mentioned Zed head, unless the far side of which had a flare in it that let it mate better to the flexible hose.  I can't tell from the image, but the far side seems to be just a square cut end. That seems to be likely what I will have without adding length, so the same problem remains. What to do on that far end.

You guys mention compression fittings, and while I can see how they work on the hardline side, i suppose then you need a threaded section on the far side of the union fitting to adapt it to a hose barb and hose.  This would work on the 5/16", but i feel as if the 3/32 would be too small for those type of fittings.  (at least ones I can find)

For clamping directly to the hard line, I can probably add a bit of a bubble flare to the 5/16 line, but the 3/32 will likely be too small for any tool I have access to. I'm not against simply hose clamping the 3/32" hose over the square cut return line, just concerned about introducing leaks.

If i was to bend the fuel line back, I suppose heating it up a bit might help ease the motion.  The fuel tank is drained, but putting heat/fire to a fuel line seems like a terrible idea, so that is probably a no go.

I may just make a new 90 degree bend just above the original one the dealer made. It will add a kink in the line a little, but I wouldn't have to flatten an already bent section. I feel like chances are lower of it breaking if I bend a fresh section.

 

edit: Oddly enough I didn't consider the fact that if the tubing breaks while bending it, I can take the remaining sections and connect them together with a compression fitting.  That would be an easy solution.

Edited January 21, 2016 by DaveR

[Zed Head]

The factory used as short a section of rubber hose as they could.  Point to consider.  I thought you wanted metal to follow the original metal path.  You could run rubber hose all the way back to the tank and the car would drive.

Heating would help but all tubing has some degree of work-hardening from its initial production, and forming to shape.  You'd have to heat the tube to red-hot then let it cool.  But then that section would be softer than the steel on either side.  The final bends will be hard to get right, either way.

3/32" is tiny.  Are you missing a digit?

 

 

 

[DaveR]

I'll have to measure the hose to check, but I was basing the 3/32 on this page here: http://www.datsunstore.com/fuel-hose-return-line-p-840.html  From the site:

Quote

This hose is for the return line that runs from the fuel rail to the hard line on the RH frame rail on 70-72 240's. It is smaller ID than the hose that goes on the feed side of the fuel system, and can be quite difficult to locate.

That's what I was going off. The same site calls out 5/16 for the supply to/from the fuel pump to the rail, and then 1/4" line from the fuel rail to the carbs. Those seemed right so I figured the 3/32 was probably right as well.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Dave, send me your address again.. I may have a NOS brand new hazard light for ya.  Totally off topic, but if I can find it, its yours.

 

 

[DaveR]

Chugging along going through all the systems.  Brakes are sorted out I believe, after some issues with the master cylinder bleeding and making my flares well.

Dropped the tank and am debating having it simply hot tanked and sandblasted (I will paint the outside and leave inside without coating), or fully restored by Gas Tank Renu.  

Images can be found here: http://s130.photobucket.com/user/IceWilly/library/240Z/Fuel%20Tank?sort=3&page=1

I can't tell what the chipping inside is. It's been sitting since the 80's, so if it was a previous gas tank liner... it must be very old. Hopefully hot tanking will get it all off and expose the grey surface which I believe is the original tank thats hiding under that layer of stuff.

 

[DaveR]

to be plated!  and before you ask, i have word doc with hardware details of every piece i took off. Pictures, Counts, OD's, ID's, lengths, stackup, etc etc.

I may have gone a bit overboard

Related, do you think I can plate the linkage ties with the plastic ball ends?  I don't think i can get them off, but i would like them plated if possible.  

Edited June 5, 2016 by DaveR

[DaveR]

The car is back on the road, and feeling really good. Almost a year after purchasing I have buttoned it all back up.  There were no real "modifications" to speak of except the springs/struts, mostly reconditioning everything to good working order.

Thanks everyone for all the help and suggestions thus far. I'm sure we are just beginning

Here are the things I did in the last year:

Brakes:
- New MC
- New front calipers/pads/bridges/hoses
- New rear cylinders/hardware/bridges/hoses
Fuel:
- Reconditioned gas tank inside and out. Por15/Red Kote
- New flexible fuel lines everywhere
- New vent hoses, to OEM spec
- New fuel pump (mech)
- Fuel filter/G2 inline fuel filter at the back (overkill with reconditioned tank I imagine)
- Reconditioned Fuel gauge sender
Ignition:
- Original points still in place for now
- Fully rebuilt carbs. Stripped down to individual parts/plated/rebuilt with ZTherapy bits.
- New OEM air filter
Cooling:
- Original fan/clutch/radiator. Works well with no leaks
- New hoses all around, new water pump, new T-stat and housings, original Temp sender
Drivetrain:
- New fluids for everything/ oil filter.
- New clutch master/slave/hose
- Original U-joints and half shafts. (seem decent enough for now)
Suspension/Steering:
- New Stagg struts all around
- Vogtland springs
- new balljoints/tie rod ends/bump stops/strut bearings
- New front control arm bushings (have TC bushings I may put in shortly)
- Original bushings still at: Steering rack, rear control arm, and TC.
- 14" Slotted wheels and tires from a friend.
- Aligned  (they couldn't balance the tires because of age sadly)
Appearance/Cleanup:
- Removed original AC unit and hoses/ passenger foot well unit.
- Cleaned up undercoating all over engine bay.
- Clean up carb bodies/valve cover/head as best I could.

Future plans include:
- Drive Drive Drive
- Double checking fuel levels in carbs and making sure its tuned well at high rpm.
- Few interior bits that are aged. (Shifter boots and such)
- Front air dam
- new exhaust with a better note.
- New battery if necessary.
- Work on tightening up front end clunking

 

Edited September 4, 2016 by DaveR