On 12/2/2015 at 4:54 PM, djwarner said:

Hi Cliff,

 

Now you have me confused. How do you think changing valve timing will change the distributor timing setting? They both run off the crankshaft but have different take-offs and are independently set-able.

 

What was your timing goal and how did you measure it. I know the FSM specifies 5 degrees BTDC, but this is done with a light directly attached to the points and has no centrifugal advance as the engine is not running using this technique. If I am reading the drawing in the Haynes manual correctly, rotating the distributor clockwise advances the timing.

 

If you are looking to set the distributor less clockwise, you would be retarding the timing while you are advancing the valve timing. Is this your goal?

 

Of course the one point we never asked, is this a new chain?

Cliff,

moving the cam timing won't help you with ignition timing.

My thinking is/was going to #2 gives me 4 degrees timing advance which in turn would allow me to back up the distributor timing 4 degrees, evening things out initially.  Then when the motor is broken in and loosened up I could get more power by adjusting the carbs and adding that 4 degrees back to the distributor's timing. 

 

Before I rebuilt the motor I was at full advance and it topped out at 6,000 rpms.  Now I've opened up the ports to match the head gasket and added a header with 2.5" full exhaust, moving more air leaning out my carbs hopefully.  Then I want to add more fuel and more distributor timing for more rpms.

 

It's a new timing kit, yes, and it is tight.  Both bright links are on their sprocket dimples, cam and crank.

 

So at the very worst, what y'all are saying is that I will still have my distributor all the way clockwise, full advance?  

 

EDIT: Could I take a Dremel and lengthen the hole on the adjustment plate of the distributor for more advance?

          I have the '79 ZX E12-80 distributor. 

 

EDIT #2: I think I'm worried about a problem I had before rebuilding.  Hopefully it won't be there now and the advance will not            need to be as severe as before.

My "more air more fuel quicker spark equals more rpm" theory is not true for SUs. They'

adjust for the air flow by the piston lowering and raising.

Sorry

I'd agree about the chain tensioner tool - but if three people say it, three, can you imagine, three people walking in, giving that advice and walking out. They may think it's an organization.

They may think it's a movement!

 

So we're going to veer way off course for a moment... This past fall 2015, I went on a quest. I couldn't find the dump, but I did find:

 

Unfortunately, it is a bit overgrown and no longer open:

Nature has started to take over:

 

The church, however, is still vibrant as "The Guthrie Center". https://guthriecenter.org/  And yes... That is a red VW Microbus in the parking lot:

 

Sorry for the detour, and back to your regularly scheduled event. 

Are you guys saying "DON'T FORGET AND USE CHAIN TENSIONER TOOL" !!!!  Should I buy from MSA or other source!!!  PLEASE ADVISE!!!

 

Ebay has this nice red one for much cheaper price!!!

 

I think the one you're after is here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/60-9921

 

You can build your own, but it's real purpose is to keep the timing chain from slipping down into the oil pan...which would add a few steps (OK, more than a few) to your process!

Feels like I'm in a lecture hall at a technical school when I read this thread! So many years of experience to benefit from here...!