What a Difference a Day Makes with RedBird

[Redwing]

Out or in?  The gas cap should let air in at some low vacuum level so that excess vacuum does not happen.You can see the little valve on the inside of the cap, and pry it up with your finger.  It vents through small holes though and is hard to check for proper operation.

 

The charcoal canister and vent lines should let excess pressure out, again at some low pressure number.

 

On the issue with pressing the clutch, putting in gear, and it dying.  Do you rev the engine beforehand, or just let it idle and go directly to clutch and gear shift lever?  A cold transmission will have thick gear oil and put a load on the engine.  If the idle is low, and the engine idles rich, it might be on the edge of dying and the extra work kills it.  Then the plugs are wet and you have to wait for them to dry.  

 

If you get a chance and can find someone to do it (crawling around under the dash) fixing your tachometer would give a fantastic diagnostic tool.  Not knowing your idle speed and being unable to see spark by the tachometer action is really leaving you in the dark/dusk.  OR, if you have one of those old-timey tune-up dwell tools with a tachometer function, or a meter with a tachometer function, or a meter with a Hertz function, you could see spark activity that way also.  also, since it takes three hours to re-start, might as well have an old spark plug handy to stick in a wire and look for spark.  Spark, spark, spark...is it there?

The whoosh was in. Again, that was new since she has been running good. I will look at the little vent on the inside of the gas cap and will report.

My Normal routine is to apply the foot brake, remove the E. brake, push in clutch, put it into gear and Then give a few revs before releasing the clutch to pull forward. That is what I did. But she did not stay alive once I put it into gear, after pushing in clutch. Poof she died. No opportunity to give any gas, no time at all. Instantly she died. I could have revved the engine before doing anything after getting in. But I did not, I was not thinking/aware that I should do that. Using your information you just sent I will do that in the future.

I will have to reply on the tach information later as I need to quit for now. Thank you for sharing all the above info with me.

[Mark Maras]

 Jai, More trivial clutch questions.

 RBs normal routine, After warming the engine, how difficult is it to shift into first gear?  And does the car want to move even the slightest bit before releasing the clutch?

 With the clutch pedal fully depressed, then slowly lifting the pedal, at what height does the clutch start to engage or the rpms drop? Floor level? 1/4 up from floor? 1/2 way? etc.

Trying to rule out a few things. Separating the chaff from the wheat.

[SteveJ]

Mark, from my brief time behind the wheel of Jai's car, I didn't notice anything peculiar about the clutch/master, though I have suggested that I flush the hydraulics with clean fluid for her.

 

And to clarify, I have had problems in the past with my 73 where the clutch was engaging with the pedal to the floor. Reverse tended to grind, too. I don't recall any problems with getting into reverse with her car.

Edited December 14, 2015 by SteveJ

[Redwing]

Jai, More trivial clutch questions.

RBs normal routine, After warming the engine, how difficult is it to shift into first gear? And does the car want to move even the slightest bit before releasing the clutch?

With the clutch pedal fully depressed, then slowly lifting the pedal, at what height does the clutch start to engage or the rpms drop? Floor level? 1/4 up from floor? 1/2 way? etc.

Trying to rule out a few things. Separating the chaff from the wheat.

No problem ever with shifting into first gear after warming the engine.

And, no, she never tries to move at all before releasing the clutch.

Lifting the clutch pedal, it starts to engage about 1/2 the way up as I remember. I've never really paid much attention to it, going by muscle memory.

Thanks...

Edited December 14, 2015 by Redwing

[Mark Maras]

Thanks.  I'm ruling out a drive train problem as well as a serious fuel leak. 

 Anyone, The one-way? valve in the filler cap. Could an intermittent malfunction in it cause the stall and no re-start condition? And if so could could the problem be fixed by loosening the cap and then starting the engine? Easy to check, the next time it won't restart. 

 Just sittin and a thinkin.

[Redwing]

I will have to reply on the tach information later as I need to quit for now.

Regarding the tach. I have been snooping around about it. I had decided that removing it by loosening the screw

near the face was something I could do. Just to see if the back connection is ok, or if connected at all. If the back connection is indeed attached, I would see if I could manage unplugging it. No great loss if I cannot get the back connection reattached. Since it is not working, and it probably is beyond anything I can do to repair it myself. Then I would just close it back with the front screw, and wait to see where I could buy another to replace it. I realize the extent that it has on the diagnostics of RB, sure would like to have a working tach.

Anyone think this is a bad idea? What could go wrong if I do this?

Thanks bunches,

Jai

[SteveJ]

I might have a working replacement lying about in the garage, Jai. I would need to transfer the face from yours to it, though.

[Patcon]

If I remember correctly, Zed head had a car that wouldn't run without the tachometer plugged in. Don't know if that is definitive though...

[Redwing]

I might have a working replacement lying about in the garage, Jai. I would need to transfer the face from yours to it, though.

Wonderful Steve!!! Thank you for your fine offer. Let me know when it is good for me to drive to your place.

I am so pleased.

Hooray!!!

Jai

[Redwing]

If I remember correctly, Zed head had a car that wouldn't run without the tachometer plugged in. Don't know if that is definitive though...

Hmmm, thanks for that info. Guess I will make sure I can replace the back connection Before unplugging it.

Just in case.

Jai

[gwri8]

There are Two screws on the Tach Jai.  The one you can see in the front and one underneath the dash. you would have to lay down on the floor board to see the one underneath. It's not that hard, but it is awkward for sure.

[rossiz]

if the fuel system is not venting properly, you could run lean - if she dies, after checking the fuel pressure then loosen the gas cap and see if the "whoosh" happens again and if that helps her re-start. a simple test, costs nothing...

 

the fuel-soaked gravel, pointing to fuel leaks are worrisome, as the fuel injection system is at a fairly high pressure and a pin-hole leak from a loose fitting or cracked hose can squirt a bunch of fuel quickly. please, please don't check with matches! s30 driver and i were working on his car right before he left for a long trip and just wiggling his fuel rail caused the injector hoses to crack (they were old) and it was spraying fuel all over the place. the fuel leak may or may not have anything to do w/the stalling, as the pump may generate more flow/pressure than the leak, but it's still something that needs to be addressed. if i recall from early posts, your fuel hoses have been replaced by a previous owner - the hard lines come up the body on the passenger side right under the battery, and many have found corrosion on them due to leaky batteries over the years - worth a check.