77 280 cold start vs main injectors

[Zed Head]

You've covered all bases.

 

I noticed this in your other picture but assumed that it had to be a closed elbow.  But in the attached snip it looks like an open T.  It would be a big vacuum leak.  The crankcase, valve cover, and intake manifold are all connected.

[rosaluma]

Yes, closed elbow, not a tee.  FYI, the tach flutters when attempting to start, so I assume it is connected.  Will run the bible troubleshoot test again and report results.  Last night, all were either continuity or battery voltage, as indicated in the test.

[siteunseen]

If You can't get it running, sale me the valve cover.

That looks really cool/neat!

[Zed Head]

More thoughts -

 

That bulb in the CSV plug may not respond fast enough to flash on the injector pulses.  The circuit-closed duration is small at idle.

 

You really really really should be able to get it to run, surge, and die, using starting fluid.  Is it possible that the AFM vane is stuck closed, choking air supply?  Rag in the air filter housing?  Where are you applying the starter fluid?  You should squirt it directly in to the intake manifold on the engine side of the throttle blade.  A start and surge would at least let you know that the engine will run if fuel is supplied.  Pull that hose off of the elbow and squirt a bunch in there.

 

Bad fuel might also be "unlightable".  Who knows.  

 

Pumping the throttle doesn't really do anything for EFI. There's no accelerator pump or acceleration fuel enrichment.

 

Are you using real starting fluid or something that has worked for others, like brake cleaner or WD-40?  People do that.  There are two types of brake cleaner - chlorinated and "green" non-chlorinated.  The chlorinated stuff doesn't burn.

 

One more time on "it really should start with starting fluid if the mechanicals are right and you have spark".  You should be able to completely remove the AFM and throttle body and squirt starting fluid in to the manifold hole and get it to start.  Air, fuel, spark - start.  It would just rev up and down as long as you squirted fluid but it should happen.  Better to leave the throttle body on so that you have some control, but if I was in your spot that's what I would focus on.  Get something to burn in the cylinders before worrying about the injectors.

[rosaluma]

Sprayed the starter fluid in between the AFM and the throttle body...still no start.  I'm leaning towards vacuum leak.  Won't be able to get to it until Thursday.  Thanks for helping.

 

[Zed Head]

I suggested squirting in to the hose elbow but really you should squirt directly into the intake manifold.  More vapor where it will get in to the cylinders.

 

Good luck.

[rosaluma]

Cracked open the Factory Service Manual and tested continuity on all components...all passed.  Will start testing each component per the manual.

[Zed Head]

Cracked open the Factory Service Manual and tested continuity on all components...all passed.  Will start testing each component per the manual.

Test at the ECU connector and get real resistance numbers.  The Fuel Injection Guides have great pictures of the connector pinout and test procedures in a well laid-out format.

 

http://www.xenonzcar.com/s130/other.php

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still, it should start with starter fluid...

[rosaluma]

All tests were done at the 35-pin connector.  I have used the Fuel Injection Guide, as well.  Not sure what you mean by real numbers.  Continuity shows up as .000.  Battery voltage shows up during the tests that indicate such. 

[Zed Head]

For example, the coolant temperature sensor.  If it is properly connected, and it shows .000 resistance at the 35 pin connector, that's a problem.  The injector circuits have a resistance spec. also.

[rosaluma]

Thank you for the continued help.  What a great learning experience.  Hope this gets me closer to solving the problem.

 

Factory Service Manual indicates the Control Unit is bad, and to replace. However, I decided to go through the test in the bible and came up with the attached. Pg 50 indicates the AFM needs testing, as the resistance between pin 7 and 8 is more than minimal.  Pg 58 and 60 indicate No Continuity in vehicle ground on pins 16 and 35. Here is a picture of the fusable links.  The fuel injection fusible link doesn't normally sit out like that, I pulled it out for better visability. I also noticed that pins 11 and 12 are switched from the diagram in the bible. I am assuming that is related to California model, altitude switch.

Edited December 15, 2015 by rosaluma

[rosaluma]

Both pin 16 and 35 connect at the same point. So, thought I'd take a look. Looks like the previous owner made some repairs. Anybody got an idea about repairing or replacing this section of the harness? Looks nasty to do, as it is buried in the dash.