Yes I would say the proportioning valve is gone

^ Agreed

Hooray! Sounds like good news to me!

 

Is there any advantage (or reason) to remove the warning/control lamp switch/valve? I still can't imagine what it does...and, it's not connected to anything electrical, so maybe it's a mechanical failsafe in case one of the master cylinder resovours dies? Hmmm.  I like the idea of getting things out of the way if they're not necessary, but I also like brakes!

In the event of a " Catastrophic " brake failure on one of the circuits ( say a blown brake hose ), the shuttle valve will switch over and isolate that circuit. That enables you to " pump up " the brakes without losing all of your fluid and pressure. Pedal travel goes very long, but you will still have " some " brakes.

 

Once tripped, it locks in place and has to be reset by applying reverse hydraulic pressure. This can be done by following a special procedure when bleeding as ZH mentioned.

Edited December 19, 20159 yr by Chickenman

Leave the brake switch. you could add a light on the dash or in one of the gauges. The switch will turn the light on if one of the braking circuits fails. its always good to know when only half of your brakes are working.

Thanks again Chickenman--I love the idea of brakes and especially know what that thing does. I'm assuming I'd know if it was tripped already in some way, so I'll assume it's set and plan to leave it there...just in case.

 

Patcon, any idea where the "switch" part of it is? Is there an electrical connection I missed, or do I need to add something? I'm sure I'd feel the difference, but I made a "check engine" light (it's a shift light with a "check engine" sticker over it) for fun, and I could add the brake switch to that circuit so I know when something has gone sideways for the brakes.

The switch is a simple grounding switch. It's under the red plastic wiring conduit in post #36

Edited December 20, 20159 yr by Chickenman

The switch is a simple grounding switch. It's under the red plastic wiring conduit in post #36

 

Yes the switch is connected to the bullet connector under the red plastic loom. I assume that is creating a ground path when tripped as it is only one wire. So to create a brake light you would feed power to one side of the lamp and connect the ground side to the bullet connector, when tripped it will light up, if I am correct...

I'll see what I can rig up this winter...sounds a good option. Also, checked the brakes this morning and measured the pistons so I could get the new seals on the way (they come in 1 3/8, 1 5/8, and 1 3/4 sizes). I've got the typical 1 3/8 pistons front and rear. I ordered seals for all corners and new cotter pins from Design Products this morning. I'm sure I could have gotten them through Summit, Wilwood, etc., but Don at Design Products has been really helpful and I like sending my business his way.

 

For anyone interested, his website is: http://www.dpracing.co/ and his prices were exactly the same as ordering them from Summit or Wilwood.

 

Also, for folks in the future looking for the process I plan to follow, I found a Youtube link that was reasonably helpful. It's here:

 

Finally, I learned that I have the standard compound for street on the car, the equivalent today is the BP10. I'm not super excited with how they work in the wet, but I'll try to manage one issue at a time and play around with the recommendations here once the system is working properly.