Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

a very fast '72


87mj

Recommended Posts

Back in '79, my first car was a '73 240z.  It ran well most of the time.  But those 6 years were not good to it.  The frame and body were rusted so I got rid of it. 

 

In 1980, an old lady, probably in her late 20s - early 30s, who worked at a local car parts store in town had a '72 she wanted to sell.  I test drove that thing one day with a friend of mine.

 

I struggled to keep it under 10mph across the parking lot.  When I got it on the highway, I had throttle left as it chirped the tires when I reached 70mph and shifted into 3rd. I now own my third 240z. My second 240 was a '72 and ran very well (except for additional rust issues). My current one has 59k miles on it and is as close to new as I will find today. My point is it was not my imagination or an impressionable age sort of thing.  Nothing compared to this '72 I test drove.

 

I gave the lady her keys back and said it was too fast and that I struggled to keep it under 70 down the highway.  She laughed and said, "oh yes, it will do 155.  The previous owners raced it".  It easily remains the fastest car I have ever driven since.

 

My friend owned several sports cars of the era (Porsche 914 with the 2.0, fiat spider, he drove an XKE for about 6 months). His comment was "I cant get over the power".

 

Many sports cars of the era had dual carbs.  My friend claimed all they did was adjust the jets on the carbs.  The car didn't idle rough like a cam was installed.  The engine looked and sounded factory stock in every way.

 

Does anyone have any thoughts on what was done to this car?

Edited by 87mj
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Back in '79, my first car was a '73 240z.  It ran well most of the time.  But those 6 years were not good to it.  The frame and body were rusted so I got rid of it. 

So, does no one wonder how in the world that Z managed to have rust in the frame and body In 6 YEARS?

Parked at night in the ocean perhaps???

Hmmm......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Choose the right components, blue print the engine and a good port, polish with three angle valve job and a " stock sounding " and " looking " L24 can be very fast. It doesn't mean what inside is " stock " at all.... for a 1972 engine that is.

 

Lets see: An early block .040 over with Flat Tops, an E88 head ported and polished with large valves. Fully balanced and blueprinted, 1970 Euro intake manifold with early SU's massaged by some of the SU guru's of the day ( Or larger SU carbs off a Jag ) , early Camshaft ( I think an E88 was the best... if my memory is correct ) . Or a mild Autocross grind,  around 268 - 270 degrees with some added lift. You wouldn't notice any idle " Lope "  with a mild enough cam. A nice set of headers or  an early non-emission exhaust manifold into a mandrel bent 2.5" exhaust system. Yeah that would make some decent power. :cool:

 

I ran a similar combo back in the late 1970's and early 80's with my ICSCC D - Production 240Z. We used to give the C - Production Porsche 911S 's a real hard run for the overall win.

 

NHRA  Stock class is also a prime example of what can be done with " Stock " engines. They make much more power than the factory engines with stiff restrictions on modifications for the class.

Edited by Chickenman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I questioned the six year rust too. He doesn't state the extent of of it. A daily driver in the winter on salted roads could certainly do some damage in six years. A lot of the undercoating on Zs cracks & loosens over time and can collect moisture in pockets. Floor pans are a good example. Probably what looked like a huge amount of rust back then, would be considered very repairable now. Also the extent of the rust is in the eye of the beholder.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I live in South West Michigan. A 70's car or truck after 6 winters here would have plenty of rust, a Z with thin 70's Japanese steel of questionable quality at that time would pretty much be gone.

 

Salt is cheap here road commissions use lots of it. Detroit loves it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am a little surprised some of you didn't realize how serious the rust issue can be.  The early Datsuns were among the worst.  Slightly worse than old Jeeps but better than international scouts.  If you drive an early z in this area of the country year round, it will be totaled in 5 years.

 

The rust areas are that small steel plate inside the front wheel wells.  That turns into a hole 3" high by 8" long.  The frame rails the engine sits on are the second to go.  The tops of the front fenders have nothing to protect them from stones hitting them from underneath so the tops of those wide fenders rust through (280z's had some protection underneath).  Then the rear fenders go.  The rockers and floors go at about the same time.  In '79, the frame on my '73 was so far gone the sway bar was no longer bolted to anything on the driver side.  There was nothing there to bolt to.  My current '71 is the first Z I have seen that didn't have any rust.  I am not saying mine is the only one not rusted.  I am saying as a Z fan, this is the first car I have seen that is not rusted.  You never see series one on the road any longer.  Literally never.

 

Oh and I forgot to add one more thing.  Back then in Indiana, vehicles had to have safety inspections.  Mine didn't pass because of the floorboard on the driver side.  There wasn't one.

 

Recently, I was very passively shopping for one.  Then I ran across mine.  It was originally a California car.  I dont think it has even been wet for 20 years, certainly no snow. The frame looked new.  The springs still had a slight gloss to them.  The frame, floorboards, insides of the fenders  looked as if had only 10k miles on it.   As I looked it over, all I could think of is "Holy mother of God.  My wife is going to kill me." Then I bought it.

Edited by 87mj
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.