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Ken's 280z Resto Thread


ksechler

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I haven't posted in awhile so I thought I would give an update.  I have been focusing on getting the mechanics of the car worked out before finishing the front body panels and putting it all back together. I am just about ready to fire the motor.  I completed the fuel system but haven't wet tested it yet.  I have also completed the cooling system except my heater core is shot.  I am waiting for a replacement and once I get that in I will be ready to put coolant in the car.  I have started wiring the XDi2 ignition setup.  I think that is just about ready to go.  I have an ignition map to start with and the motor has been bench run.  Once I get everything working I will integrate the new ignition, fuel pump and cooling fans into the existing wiring harness.  I haven't quite figured that all out yet - one thing at a time...

The biggest time killer (at least for me) seems to be the restoration of the pieces.  Just as a example:  want to put the doors back on?  That means sandblasting and painting the hinges, blasting or chemically cleaning the door latches, plating them, polishing them and then installation.  Then there's windows.  I put the windows in and had to take the whole mess apart because I hadn't installed the door latch, which has to go in first.  The I couldn't get the windows to line up - had the front sashes reversed - d'uh.  

Anyway, enough whining, enjoy the pics.  

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Edited by ksechler
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  • 2 weeks later...
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I need some help with my electrical system.  I have been trying to use the manual but the schematic is giving me headaches, and it doesn't show one of the things I need to know.  I would post this in the electrical forum, but I'm hoping to keep as much of my thread together as possible.  Hope that's ok.  

First question.  Would somebody please post a photo of give me a description of how to land on my starter.  I'll enclosed a picture of what I have if my stupid computer starts acting right.  I know that the Positive battery cable, white wire in the main harness and white wire in the engine harness are in play.  I know the engine harness white wire goes to the solenoid, I'm not sure about the rest.  

Second question has to do with keyed power (cranking and running).  I thought that I could pick up the two wires from the coil (one for cranking and the other for running) and use them to excite some relays to pull in power for my Ignition module and fans.  To get cranking and running power it looks like I need to land both wires on the relay.  Is this sound wiring practice or do I run the risk of back feeding something.  It doesn't seem quite right to me.  

Thanks! 

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There should be two wires from the harness to the solenoid. One is white and the other is yellow. The white connects at the same point as the positive cable (ring lug). The yellow wire has a different connector (spade lug) and is by itself. The negative cable mounts to the starter closer to the flywheel. Those are the only stock wires going to the solenoid/starter. Ignore the smaller red wires. Those are for my headlight relays.

When starting the car, the wire from the ignition switch bypasses the ballast resistor and goes to the coil. When the key is in the ON position, the circuit for the ignition goes through the ballast resistor. If you use a higher impedance coil, you can bypass the ballast resistor all of the time. To do that, just put all three wires on the same post on the ballast resistor. If you don't run a higher impedance coil, pulling the ignition module power off of both circuits will cause you to bypass the resistor and burn up your coil.

What is the purpose of the fans? If it's for the radiator, use a thermostat to complete the circuit for the relay. Both the fan relay and the fans can come off the battery. The thermostat will keep the fans from running with the car off. Wiring that way will also allow for some cooling after the car is off.

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Check this out!

I scored a crack-free dash on e-bay about a year ago.  Now it's in the car.

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The car now starts on the key.  Thanks SteveJ for the starter assistance!  Fuel gauge works, oil pressure works, voltage meter works (but car wont charge).  Temperature gauge does not work.  I have ordered a new sending unit.  

I still have to install the interior, glass, and paint and install the front fenders, hood and valence.  

Oh, and for those who saw my post about gas tank woes, I cleared the blockage and I'm good to go.   

 

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No photos to go with this one, but I made another milestone this weekend.  I filled and bled the brakes and clutch.  Then I fired up the car and backed it out of the garage.  Just for kicks I drove it to the top of the driveway, turned around and came back.  My neighbors probably though I was nuts since the car has no windows, no front fenders and no hood.  It was very exciting.  The first time the car has moved under its own power in over 3 years.  It actually felt pretty good.  

I've got a stubborn leak at the brake fluid switch that I need to sort out.  I hate to have to drain the system down and bleed it again but I tightened the hell out of the nut and it still leaks.  So far I've only found two leaks.  I think I fixed one but the other persists.  Keep my fingers crossed the no more pop up.   

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I painted the front fenders.  Sorry about the crappy cell phone picture.  Those of you with a discerning eye may notice the drivers side door looks a little funny.  I missed a dent and had to rework.  The dent's fixed and I sprayed two coats on the repaired area.  I need to feather and respray the door.

I'm still fighting with my alternator.  Can't get it to act quite right.  Anyone done a 100a single wire conversion.  I'd be interested to hear your opinions.  

 

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