Ken's 280z Resto Thread

[SteveJ]

What isn't "quite right"? Where did you purchase the alternator from, and what is the part number. I was researching the GM alternators in order to help a friend do a conversion. We installed the GM alternator, but he hasn't finished the car, yet.

[ksechler]

39 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

What isn't "quite right"? Where did you purchase the alternator from, and what is the part number. I was researching the GM alternators in order to help a friend do a conversion. We installed the GM alternator, but he hasn't finished the car, yet.

Short version of "quite right" is that it doesn't really charge the battery.  It's IC and there seem to be two versions of how to modify the wiring to remove the regulator.  One doesn't work at all for me and the other works, but only if I rev the car up quite a bit.  Which brings me to another issue.  I have a lot more electrical load than stock.  I have an electric fuel pump, two electric cooling fans, and an electric vacuum pump.  I'm not sure 60a cuts it but it probably  does.  The final issue, though, is that I'm getting a little sick of screwing around with it, and a single wire alternator simplifies matters.  I'm ready to be done with this car.  It's been sitting in my garage too long.  It belongs on the road.

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, ksechler said:

Short version of "quite right" is that it doesn't really charge the battery.  It's IC and there seem to be two versions of how to modify the wiring to remove the regulator.  One doesn't work at all for me and the other works, but only if I rev the car up quite a bit.

Just jumping in to point out that you're still not "quite right" in your level of descriptiveness.  Kidding.  But "doesn't really charge" doesn't really mean much.  There are some basic measurements that will tell a story.  The need to "rev up" is typical of a missing circuit.

[ksechler]

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Just jumping in to point out that you're still not "quite right" in your level of descriptiveness.  Kidding.  But "doesn't really charge" doesn't really mean much.  There are some basic measurements that will tell a story.  The need to "rev up" is typical of a missing circuit.

Sorry, I would've added more detail but I wasn't trying to get on too much of a tangent with the alternator.  I have read all the old threads here and elsewhere and haven't found quite what I'm looking for. So here goes, but remember, you asked for it....

There seem to be two schemes for bypassing the regulator for an IC alternator.  

Both schemes have you jumper the 1 and 5 wires,  One scheme has you jumper 2 and 3.  The other 2 and 6.  Using the 2/3 combo doesn't work at all.  I get 12 volts at the battery and a red charge light.  Using the 2/6 option works if the motor's rev'd and gives 14 volts at the battery, but a non-functional charge light.   Most of what I have read indicates that the 2/3 option is the right one and the 2/6 option will interfere with the operation of the charge light and the brake warning lamp.  

I really think something might be weird in the wiring.  When I measure voltage to the alternator from the sensing line I only get 11.92 volts while the battery is around 12.5.  Also, when the key is out I can hear a relay pull in when I use the 2/3 scheme which doesn't seem right.  I wouldn't expect the relay to be energized in an at rest state.

[Zed Head]

The 2/3 scheme is probably the atlanticz scheme?  I've posted on that relay before, it's the brake check warning light relay.  I rewired mine to the fuel pump power circuit.  If you don't want to mess with it, you could just unplug it, but the light won't work.  The 11.92 volts instead of 12.5 might be because of the voltage drop from the relay, I think it's on what is used as the Sense wire.

The only wire that you really need from the harness is the L wire.  The S wire can be run separately to the battery or starter lug.  The brake light relay power wire can be fixed separately.  The key is that yellow wire to the relay only gets power when the engine is running.  That's why I used the fuel pump power, plus the wire runs right next to the passenger seat, so easy to tap in to it  The engine running is what actuates the relay to turn off the brake light.

The 76 alt swap discussion discussion pops up periodically and sometimes gets out of hand.  Good luck.

Edited August 29, 2016 by Zed Head

[ksechler]

21 hours ago, Zed Head said:

18 hours ago, Zed Head said:

The 76 alt swap discussion discussion pops up periodically and sometimes gets out of hand.  Good luck.

I noticed...

Anyway, I may have found my problem.  The + cable between the battery and starter was loose.  I tightened is and so far so good.  I'll still have to sort out the pesky brake light.

 

 

[ksechler]

I'm getting very close to finished with my car.  This weekend was very productive.  I got the front fenders, valence, and cowl painted and installed.  I replaced the temperature sending unit, too.  So with the exception of the tach I have fully functioning instruments.  Probably the first time in twenty years that the gas level worked!  I still need to paint the hood and install it.  Otherwise, I'm done with painting.  The car can be moved under it's own power now.  The engine, brakes and clutch are all functioning. 

 

[ksechler]

Wow, no love... :-(

On another note.  I put in the door weatherstrips and had to readjust the doors to get them to close.  This messed up my panel alignment a little.  The weatherstrips are new, will they crush down a little bit once they've been in a while?

[madkaw]

I'm digging it!!!
Progress is a wonderful thing. It looks good. I like your personal touches - flares and air dam.
Painted rear spoiler would be sick too!


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[grannyknot]

Much love !

[Patcon]

I think it looks great. Don't feel ignored, just didn't jump in...

[wheee!]

I'll chime in too, I know how important feedback is to motivation! Looks great, jealous as all heII... I haven't been in the garage for months...

soon. very soon