Not home but a few pounds (2-3). We used to make the base plate thicker (5 lbs for both) but it was overkill.

Like you I try to reduce weight whenever possible but if it's needed I stop eating as much as I normally do and exercise more. Sort of a win-win.

I want to go to a Tilton or similar pedal set-up and eliminate the brake booster but the expense is more than my current budget will allow. To make up for the added weight of an electrical vacuum pump (really, really big cam) I am on a 5 lb reduction plan where those 5 can come from the car or from me. The old BSR cars had original door pulls that had maybe 3 dozen 3/16th holes drilled in them. I have not gone that far.

So here's a picture of both the 1st and current generation of our single point jack plates.

The left side front of the car has a jackstand under it to allow the header/collector to slide in (tomorrow's chore).

If you look closely you can see the small 1st gen and to the right the current plate which is being held up by a magnet. Looking even closer you can see my reflection. I'm down on one knee and in a standing position you can't see the lip of the plate unless you are more than 20 or so feet away.

You might also see the very small flare lip on the rear wheel arc.

I have a scissor lift in my garage. Do you think the jacking plates would work with lifting at 4 points? I envision the front being raised on the thick part of the frame rails while the rear would be raised wherever the jacking plates are welded on.

That would be possible or you use the T intersection of the body frame just before the rear wheel well as a jacking point.

I have had my Z sitting on stands for months at a time with two on the front sway bar bushing housing and the other two at the intersection I mentioned above. A fully loaded car (engine, interior, etc.).

You can order the plates and if you decide not to use them then we offer a complete refund.

You know how the jack has the slot on the lifting plate?  It has not only a slot, but a round hole as if a large pin is supposed to fit in there. Picture A)  I haven't looked, but is there supposed to be some kind of a bulge in the pinch welded area where the jack point is?  It would be useful for safety, as as bulge would help keep the jack from slipping sideways while lifting.

BTW-    Is the floor  at the same level as the outer part of the rocker?  I think I might get a newer scissor jack, but not all are the same design as the Zed jack:  one side is higher than the other. (Picture b

Edited March 8, 20169 yr by TomoHawk

22 hours ago, TomoHawk said:

You know how the jack has the slot on the lifting plate?  It has not only a slot, but a round hole as if a large pin is supposed to fit in there. Picture A)  I haven't looked, but is there supposed to be some kind of a bulge in the pinch welded area where the jack point is? 

I think that the round area is there so that the rivet (?, bolt?), that holds the top piece to the rest of the jack, can be inserted and attached.

I think you are right.  the head rotates on that point and  I think there is a rivet there.  Most other scissor jacks I've seen have a non-rotating head, which is welded on, so the rivet is unnecessary on those jacks.  So you can turn the head and use your Zed jack on more than just the lift points under the rockers.

Another approach - welded in tubes to go with Evojack hydraulic jack.  http://www.motorsport-tools.com/evojack-wrc-light-weight-in-car-quick-lift-hydraulic-rally-jack.html  Only worth it if your doing a bare metal rebuild - and wheel changing speed is important. It works as advertised.

I have seen a couple type that you drive up a small ramp, then put a floor jack under that to lift up the wheels. Pros, good lift, don't have to worry about trying to drive up on it. Cons, unless you have a helper you jack up one wheel at a time torqueing the body.

I have some 3 ton jack stands, but don't like the low lift (I am planning a trans swap).

So for now I am thinking 6 ton for a 24" max lift, and a better floor jack to get me there with out a lot of messing around.

I have drive up ramps, but they are not low profile so at best I can get just the front or the back.