A thought about the brake booster....

I wonder why rpm didn't drop other times he hit the brakes - only in heavy traffic, not when he pulled into home parking spot. When my booster went bad it happened every time I hit the brakes.

dennis

Braking in gear with the clutch engaged?  Who knows.  

I knew something was wrong when my pedal was rock hard. My 72 year old Mom knew something was wrong when they were hard also. LMAO

 

  On 1/16/2016 at 3:51 PM, Patcon said:

Jalexquijano

You never answered my question about what happens if you try to rev the engine when sitting in traffic and the idle gets erratic. I still suspect too much fuel pressure or float levels. If it's a needle problem he will have a hard time finding someone to help get it right

http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/brake_booster/nissan/240z.html

I´ll check on this!! Which is the Cardone part number for the 6 inches Master Vac Brake Booster?? OEM Part is no longer available!!

 

Here's my adventures with replacing my brake booster...

 

http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/10/brake-booster.html

  On 1/17/2016 at 3:47 PM, Jarvo2 said:

Here's my adventures with replacing my brake booster...

 

http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/10/brake-booster.html

Hey Jarvo, did you use another rubber steering coupler or poly?  I've got the poly one on my 280 and I can feel every ant I run over, so I went with rubber on the 240 hoping for a little more cushioning before the steering wheel.  I still have the motor out so your opinion might change my mind.  Thanks!

I used the poly replacement & its a very stiff feeling now.  Strongly suggest trying to get a rubber part if you can chase one down.  My original was way too worn, so I needed to replace it & had the poly on hand.

Which is the Cardone part number for the 6 inches Master Vac Brake Booster?? OEM Part is no longer available!! Mine was manufactured by a company called BENDIX and has a red label. My 240z was made in January 1972.

I do not know of a source for the original small diameter brake booster. Maybe someone will chime in with one...that maybe why the one on your car is still there and bad. You can use the other sizes if you can't source one but the bolt patterns may be different or you could ship it to a company that rebuilds brake boosters. Call or email first to make sure they can source the parts.

Here's one option.  Notice the core charge.  Not as bad as the AFM core charge but still pretty far up there.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5230

How can i confirm i have an internal vacuum leak of the brake booster? Mechanic connected it to a  manual gauge and determined it had a problem! any other way of testing it?

  On 1/15/2016 at 9:26 PM, jalexquijano said:

 

Crank the engine at the garage, if it does not crank immediately i need to pull the choke for at least 1 minute. After that i push it back. Temperature needle is at 0, drive the car from the parkway until i head myself to the streets. At the streets, i can drive around nice until i get to a couple of traffic jams, lights and after 15 mins of driving temperature reaches to a Little less than 3/4 in the temp gauge. Idle becomes rough lowering from 1000 RPM to 500 or to 400 sometimes and rises back. Eventually car stalls and i have to crank it again.

 

Choke for 1 minute in Panama? I live in the north, and only can drive in Summer where it rarely hits 90 degrees.

I pull choke 1/2 way, starts immediately and shut choke off. I don't get it. This makes my head hurt.