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240z overheating at idle in traffic lights and intersections


jalexquijano

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3 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

How can i confirm i have an internal vacuum leak of the brake booster? Mechanic connected it to a  manual gauge and determined it had a problem! any other way of testing it?

Pull the booster hose from your manifold. Then install a short piece of hose on the manifold and plug it.

Take it out to the traffic and if it still dies then the booster is not the issue. Don't buy more parts before you are sure.

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5 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

If i disconnect the booster from the manifold and a plug it I wont be able to stop the car when driving??

it'll be a little harder to push the brake pedal, but you'll still be able to stop.  I wouldn't drive it for 100's of miles with the booster blocked off, or in heavy traffic, but certainly for diagnostic purposes, its the easiest thing to try!

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 Back to the subject of heated carbs for a moment. I was looking at the ZTherapys' master price list in the core charge section and found this advice.

  "Intake halves without the water pipes available on request. The water HEATS the intake charge. GOOD in the Montana winter. BAD year round in LA. Don't run water, unless your Z is cold blooded to distraction."  Panama? Hmmm.

 I now return you to brake boosters.

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One thing to point out. If you plug the water outlet ( and I'm one that thinks you should) at the thermostat housing and on the other side of the block (close the carb water circuit),  just remember one thing......until the thermostat opens, you have nowhere for water to circulate. This means that water is limited to circulating in the block only, trying to circulate through the radiator. The thermostat is a dam, waiting to open. If you get down on a cool engine before your thermostat opens, a high RPM water pump is pushing against resistance.....you can blow a freeze plug like a missile projectile ( ask me how I know this). Just be patient like you are supposed to......let your engine come to full temp with an open thermostat before any quick right foot jabs!

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2 hours ago, Diseazd said:

One thing to point out. If you plug the water outlet ( and I'm one that thinks you should) at the thermostat housing and on the other side of the block (close the carb water circuit),  just remember one thing......until the thermostat opens, you have nowhere for water to circulate. This means that water is limited to circulating in the block only, trying to circulate through the radiator. The thermostat is a dam, waiting to open. If you get down on a cool engine before your thermostat opens, a high RPM water pump is pushing against resistance.....you can blow a freeze plug like a missile projectile ( ask me how I know this). Just be patient like you are supposed to......let your engine come to full temp with an open thermostat before any quick right foot jabs!

I remember reading that but couldn't remember who. Maybe somebody else too, they were merging into fast flowing traffic and jabbed it with the coolant dead headed. I only had a 280 then but still learned from your mistake. I never understood how but didn't chance it. :D

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 Back to the subject of heated carbs for a moment. I was looking at the ZTherapys' master price list in the core charge section and found this advice.

  "Intake halves without the water pipes available on request. The water HEATS the intake charge. GOOD in the Montana winter. BAD year round in LA. Don't run water, unless your Z is cold blooded to distraction."  Panama? Hmmm.

 I now return you to brake boosters.

OOPS, double post.

Edited by Mark Maras
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