On 2/7/2016 at 1:58 PM, Marine240z said:

I also went through the dealer installed A/C system and completely upgraded it which included a new high efficiency compressor,  custom hoses & hand built evaporator which is much more efficient. 

Got any more info on this? Be great to see a separate thread on what you did and how it worked out. Thanks!

NVZEE I will start a separate thread for the A/C.  Just finished the Crane upgrade and here is the info and some picks. Also I will dyno the results next week to see how much extra h.p was gained. 

1. make sure that your SU's are tuned prior to the installation.  You will need to fine tune and balance them again afterwards.

2. use copper plugs only as they handle the voltage better. The iridium's cannot be gapped as wide and the tips are prone to get damaged.

3. I ended up with a .49 gap vs the .35.  and using the Gunson Color tune and vacuum balance achieved perfect results.  Any less gap and you will not get optimum burn and pwr.

4. Advance should be  set at around 12-15. I was running at 20 and needed to remove the distributor and reset it so that I could get to the 12-15.

    Installation was pretty straight forward and took me and my assistant about two hours.  It could be done sooner but I am kinda anal and double check everything.  Gapping the plugs took the most time because I used the color tune initially running rich with the normal gap and kept increasing gap it until the color tune showed a perfect blue. Once all plugs were gapped we then fine tuned the carbs which just needed a little adjustment as the idle increased about 200 rpms.

 

a. Back side wiring from the ps 91 coil to the distributor.

Picks:    

   B. My assistant Rollie. An expert on all things import. One of the best.  

.C    The Crane  xr 3000.

D.    A look at the optical sensor placement.  You can advance and retard timing using the bottom adjustment screw.  There is another adjustment screw the raises and lowers it. Very important that you have perfect clearance from the bottom of the rotor and from the plastic optical plate that is in the next pic.

E. another shot of the distributor.

F. Installed location.

The car really hits the 5000 rpm range effortlessly.  The choke was not needed at all this morning and startup was almost instantaneous. Any questions let me know.

Nice choice on the XR3000. They are much better than Petronix, quality wise, and put out a more powerful spark. Especially with the PS91 coil.

I'm converting my 1976 280Z to a Haltech E11 stand alone ECU. Haven't made up my mind on which way I'll go with the ignition system. I've got all the parts to do the following.

1: 280ZX Turbo Optical dizzy with a Crane HI-6S ( inductive box ) triggering either an MSD Blaster 2 coil or a Crane PS91

2: 280ZX Turbo Optical dizzy with a Crane HI-6 ( CDI box ) triggering either an MSD Blaster 2 coil or a Crane PS91

3: COP setup with 6 LS2 Yukon coils.

I like the retro look of the dizzy with spark plug wires and a single coil. However, the Haltech loom is pre-assembled with the COP LS2 loom and came with six used LS 2 coils. A little easier to hook up electrically, but harder to fabricate brackets. I'll likely sell what ever I don't use.

 

 

  On 2/1/2016 at 6:16 PM, Lumens said:

I installed this same Pertronix last year using the the ballast resistor and 1.5 ohm Pertronix coil.

Ran perfect all Summer. Maybe I should get a spare to carry in the car.

I think i should check the gap between the magnet and reader.