Diagnosing fuel system issue

[EuroDat]

Aŕh ok, Ill be the noob and ask; What is a Schrader valve?

[Zed Head]

It's the style of valve that's used for wheels/tires.  They make them for fuel systems too.  And rerigeration, AC systems.  Seals one way, with a little pin inside to open the valve to allow flow or  release pressure.

[the_tool_man]

14 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

It's the style of valve that's used for wheels/tires.  They make them for fuel systems too.  And rerigeration, AC systems.  Seals one way, with a little pin inside to open the valve to allow flow or  release pressure.

Yep. See photo. My fuel pressure gauge is fitted with a female socket to thread onto a Schrader valve.  Glad to know that won't work in time to get a different one.

Edited February 4, 2016 by the_tool_man

[EuroDat]

Thanks, I learnt something today. Here they are just called autoventiel or A/C ventiel etc. Schrader is a brand name, a bit like Xerox is to photo copying or Hoover to vacuuming.

 

[the_tool_man]

10 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

Thanks, I learnt something today. Here they are just called autoventiel or A/C ventiel etc. Schrader is a brand name, a bit like Xerox is to photo copying or Hoover to vacuuming.

 

In the US the same type of valve, when used on car and some bicycle tires, is universally called a Schrader valve.  Because the ones on fuel lines and a/c lines work exactly the same way, I call them the same thing.  I can't say whether the term, when used outside of tire valves, is standard or not.  I'm belying my US bias here.  Apologies if my use of the term confused the issue.

[Zed Head]

59 minutes ago, the_tool_man said:

  Glad to know that won't work in time to get a different one.

If you have access to a wrecking yard I've found that mid to late 90's Honda Passports and Isuzu Rodeos have a valve on a metal T on the front of the engine.  They can be removed with some side-cutters, then cleaned up with a tubing cutter.  Cheap and solid.  I have one permanently mounted on my engine and a couple in the garage for whenever.

 

[the_tool_man]

I want to start by saying thank you to everyone who helped.  The suggestion of checking the AFM was spot on.  There's a long story that belongs in its own thread.  But basically, I evaluated the car enough to convince myself of its condition, and that the engine was likely in good condition (i.e. test starting, verifying oil pressure, etc.).  I didn't attempt to further diagnose the issue.  Instead, I bought the car at a low price, since it wasn't running, and trailered it home.  When I got it home, we removed the air cleaner, and pushed open the AFM flap with a piece of wire.  The engine started and idled smoothly.  I was able to get it to run well enough to back it off the trailer and into my workshop.  I'll get to work cleaning the AFM and go from there.  I'm excited to finally be a Z owner (see pic), and glad to have found you guys.  Thanks again.

[EuroDat]

Concrates. Looks like a nice find going by the photo. Same color mine was, light blue metalic color code 305. It looks like a mid year 77 with the accordeon bumpers and the AFM fuel switch. In 77 they made a lot of changes through the year. A good idea to note the year and month in your signiture. It helps others giving advice.

From your description, it sounds like someone has been tempering with the AFM spring or a sticking flap. If that is what has been adjusted, it's generally a last resort at fixing fuel mixture issues and almost always a remedy to a symptom. You will learn that as you go along. Part of the experience of owning one of these cars.

The link Zed Head posted to Atlanticz is great for information and how to do a lot of fault finding. A good idea to read through the site. Also shows how to calibrate the AFM.

 

What are your plans for her?

[the_tool_man]

6 hours ago, EuroDat said:

What are your plans for her?

For now, I just want to clean it up, get it running and enjoy it as is.  I'll explore minor mods to improve engine performance while retaining the FI.  I'd like to swap over to 240 bumpers pretty soon.  Long term, I'd like to remove the sunroof and the body side molding.  But that'll have to wait for a full repaint.  It's funny; while I was searching I was thinking about lots of mods to modernize and customize one (lowered, triple webbers, custom interior, etc.).  But this car is so original, I feel a bit of obligation to preserve its originality.  So I'm going to have to consider my options for a while.  I have an introductory thread linked below which might be a more appropriate place for this discussion:

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/53262-new-owner-of-77-280z-from-upstate-sc/

[EuroDat]

If you are thinking of changjng to the 240Z bumper style, I did (or should say doing) that to mine. Here is the thread on it. 

 

[the_tool_man]

21 hours ago, EuroDat said:

If you are thinking of changjng to the 240Z bumper style, I did (or should say doing) that to mine. Here is the thread on it. 

 

Wow. That's a lot more work than I had imagined.  I never noticed how different the 240 and 280 front ends were.  Thanks for sharing.

[rossiz]

you can do the bumper swap on a saturday with little drama - it's the valence and grill work that take the time & effort. i did just the bumpers and will one day do the valence/grill but for now just the brightwork makes such a big difference visually it's worth it. 

i do hate eurodat's thread though, because his work is so amazing that it's pushing me out of my complacency....