Dave WM Posted February 7, 2016 Share #1 Posted February 7, 2016 I am sure this is noting new but I recently got a 5speed to go into my 1975 280z (currently has a 4speed) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMsHgfGwCVtyRrqXVtll-g?view_as=public I will need to open up the trans go fix the broken oil gutter. Never done this before but found a manual online and plan to take lots of video.Any tips? I do not plan to remove gears or bearing (hope all is well there) and if lucky just fix the broken gutter, put in some new gaskets and seals and call it a day. I assume removing the tail shaft 1st since that is the way the manual breaks it down. This would let me remove the remains of the oil gutter. One thing I noticed is I have oil leakage out of the shift linkage area. I looks like there are o rings in the manual that maybe are there to prevent this? I figure its ok for oil to leak out the back with no drive shaft installed, but not from the top where the shifter linkage is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted February 7, 2016 Share #2 Posted February 7, 2016 Pulling both end cases off is pretty straight forward. Be sure not to nick any of the mating surfaces. In the center section there is a specific procedure for loading the balls in the shifting shaft detents. (hope I said that right). I mention it because if you've got the cases off, it isn't very difficult to install new bearings, synchros and be done with it. It can be done on a 4X8 piece of plywood with basic tools. Easiest manual I've ever worked on. Period. Plus, there's that very good feeling of I did it myself. Instead of crap, now I've got to pull it again. Coulda, woulda, shoulda. I say, Go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave WM Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share #3 Posted February 8, 2016 1 hour ago, Mark Maras said: Pulling both end cases off is pretty straight forward. Be sure not to nick any of the mating surfaces. In the center section there is a specific procedure for loading the balls in the shifting shaft detents. (hope I said that right). I mention it because if you've got the cases off, it isn't very difficult to install new bearings, synchros and be done with it. It can be done on a 4X8 piece of plywood with basic tools. Easiest manual I've ever worked on. Period. Plus, there's that very good feeling of I did it myself. Instead of crap, now I've got to pull it again. Coulda, woulda, shoulda. I say, Go for it. I have seen rebuild kits including bearings, gasket and synchros for very reasonable prices. So maybe that would be a good investment? I am not into this transmission for very much so would have no prob springing for that. I guess the best approach would be to open it up and look at the condition of the gears. If they look good, go for the rebuild kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave WM Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share #4 Posted February 8, 2016 I have not started in on it but the part the reads a bit confusing to me is the relationship of the striking lever to the shift fork rods and how it releases. I guess stopper guide pin must limit the movement of the strike lever, so once it is out, there is enough rotation for the striking lever to clear the shift fork rods? I am just talking based on looking at the diagrams, maybe it will be obvious once I get into it. Is there any " SPROING!! " thing I have to look out for (I know about clips) during the disassembly? One last thing is there a supplier of the oil gutter? mine is clearly broken but if need be it looks like it could be fabricated for sheet stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted February 8, 2016 Share #5 Posted February 8, 2016 As I recall some members have questioned the quality of aftermarket synchros. There is also the gear oil issue to consider, If you offer up a few kit provider names, I'm pretty sure you'll get a rating review on them from our members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave WM Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share #6 Posted February 8, 2016 roger that. I have been reading up on oils to use (and not use, GL-5 Sulphur eats brass syncro). Before any parts are ordered I will mention what I am doing. Thanks for the heads up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 8, 2016 Share #7 Posted February 8, 2016 3 hours ago, Dave WM said: Never done this before but found a manual online and plan to take lots of video. I don't know what manual you found but the best one is the factory's. In your video you were way off on how to open it up. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave WM Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share #8 Posted February 8, 2016 1 hour ago, Zed Head said: I don't know what manual you found but the best one is the factory's. In your video you were way off on how to open it up. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ Yep the video was just me rambling before I found a manual to look at. The manual you linked to was better than what I had found, thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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