New owner of '77 280z from Upstate SC

[EuroDat]

49 minutes ago, the_tool_man said:

Siteunseen, I love that fuel rail.  It really cleans things up.  Hmm... this could be dangerous.  Must get running first. Must get running first. Must get running first.

Oh Yeah, you really should get it running first, but oh that fuel rail looks soooo niiiiiice. Mmm that sounds familiar.

Siteunseen That wasn't very nice posting that photo of your fuel rail while he is in this situation.

[Zed Head]

One thing to be careful of - you could decide to get new parts and "upgrade" and find that you need an adjustable FPR , and end up right back in the same spot with an FPR that doesn't hold pressure.  Many of the shiny aftermarket FPR's don't hold pressure.

Also, on testing injector flow, I had unbalanced injectors for a while and I'm pretty sure it contributed to a buzzy, rough running feel at high RPM.  Made me decide to swap a 5 speed for my 4 speed.  But now, with good injectors and a good tuneup, I often find myself in 4th gear on the freeway when I should be in 5th.  Stuff to think about.

[the_tool_man]

1 hour ago, EuroDat said:

A technique to help get the screws out. Hold the screwdriver firmly in the screw and tap the back of the screwdriver with a hammer while trying to unscrew it. That gennerly jars them loose.

Yeah. I use that from time to time.  I also have an impact driver, if necessary.  I just don't want to strip one if I can help it.

Holy crap! I just discovered that new injectors are $32 each. That's so cheap!  I'm used to seeing them for $200 each on late model cars. I'm almost tempted to skip testing them, and just buy a set....almost.

[siteunseen]

That's what I did. Standard fj707t, made in south carolina. Cheaper than cleaning, comes with a solid band clamp too. Not stainless steel though but you'll use them somewhere.

Rockauto.com is where I got mine. Fyi

 

 

[siteunseen]

Dont buy an adjustable fpr. Replace if bad. If it still runs bad clamp the return line building more psi. If that helps install a potentiometer in line with coolant temp sensor. Many have done this tweak myself included. Car rus great now.

[siteunseen]

The reason I say that is hardly ever have I read of a bad fpr. It's always something else like bad injectors or the ecu. Get it running and clamp off the return hose. I wasted a lot of money thinking my way. These cars are different from anything I've ever worked on, that's why I love them.

Worst or best scenario in my opinion is switching to a set of SU carbs like rossiz did. Its cheaper in the long run in my opinion.

Cliff

[rossiz]

su's rock. but for me it wasn't cheaper in the long run - because i spent $$$$ replacing/rebuilding every wire, sensor, everything in the efi system before getting the carbs. had i just gotten the carbs first it would have been way cheaper. but then again, i learned all about the L-Jet system and i'm a better man for it. poorer, at least...

oh, and i have a completely re-built efi system that i gotta sell, including new injectors, hoses, shaved/polished manifold, wire harness, ecu, afm, throttle body, the works.

[wheee!]

Sale thread? Pics?

[rossiz]

i'll have to post up some pics on this, gather up all the bits and pieces - been meaning to do so for a while. 1/4 of my garage is filled w/engine parts that i need to liquidate...

[EuroDat]

21 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Here's a link to what the injector clips look like.  You can see it in your picture.  They used a different style for some reason, even more difficult to remove, in the hardest spot to get to.  Your right angle pick will work, or a small screwdriver.  Pry the tip out, lift one side to keep it there, then pry the other side out and remove the connector.  Or you can pry it out then stick a striaght pick underneath to hold it.  Or get mad and just tear it off, the old plastic will shatter like glass.  Replace with GM, Audi, BMW or Volvo spring-clip EV1 connectors.  Mid-90's era cars used them, some still do.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3410

Here's a bulky style.  The GM and BMW models are very streamlined.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3059

There are two style clips for the connectors. The old style (I think pre Aug-77) is a C form and the later style is an U like on the MSA website. All my original connectors had the C style. See photo for the two.

If you havd the C style. It won't come off without prying the leg out from behind the conector.

All the new stuff seems to be the later U style, but since you have an early 77 you may still have the C style.

[the_tool_man]

Yeah. Upon closer inspection, I have the early style on most of mine.  The CTS and CSV have newer ones.  I think they were replaced by the PO.  I've bought a kit to replace all of the connectors with new ones.  I need to replace the one on the AFM, because it's broken.  But unless I find a problem with other ones on the car, I don't plan to do them until sometime down the road.  I may just make a new harness someday.

[rcb280z]

On 3/2/2016 at 5:12 AM, the_tool_man said:

But unless I find a problem with other ones on the car, I don't plan to do them until sometime down the road.  I may just make a new harness someday.

If your injector connectors show any corrosion I would recommend replacing them. Its easier than trying to clean them, in my experience. When I did mine I discovered corrosion further down the harness causing me to cut it back some. The connectors I bought came with plenty of wire to make up for it. My 2 cents.