Updating you, just in case you though I'd dropped off the planet...

Between spending a week sick with a stomach virus, work travel and other stuff going on, I've not had a bunch of time to work on the car.  But I have managed to get half of the fuel rail assembly out of the car.  Of the 12 screws holding the injectors in, I wrung two heads off and stripped the Phillips recess in one, and had to drill it.  See pic.  So now I get to attempt removal, hopefully without breaking them off in the intake manifold.  I swear this car is like an onion.  Working on each successive layer inevitably damages the layer beneath, creating more work to expose that layer, etc.  It's hard not to worry that I'll have to remove the intake to repair it, and break an intake bolt off in the block, and then...  So anyway, I'm soaking the screw remnants in penetrating oil in preparation for removal.

For reference, the injector connector clips are the "U" style referenced in EuroDat's photo above (left side, center).  Once I figured it out, the connectors weren't too hard to do.  The contacts look good.  No visible corrosion.  But the boots are all torn.  I will replace them, but probably not immediately.  I desperately want to get the engine running.

Once I deal with the screws, I think I have everything I need to reassemble and resume fuel system diagnosis.  I went ahead and ordered a set of new injectors.  I have a new FPR, hose, etc.  Stay tuned.

Edited March 16, 20169 yr by the_tool_man

i feel your pain...

getting past rotten fasteners and frozen parts is no fun, but once you've done it (and invested in a tub of anti-seize) you'll sleep better knowing it's all good. 

A lot of us have been through ,or are going through, this.  All I can say is that you are "bonding" with your Z right now.  Your bragging rights list is growing.  I once went to the parts store to get something and mentioned that there wasn't a nook, cranny or nether region that I hadn't touched on my car. Maybe it was the way I said it, but the girl behind the counter sure looked at me funny……..

Also, be sure to plug those FI holes before you drop something down there. I'm sure you're not looking for a reason to pull the head.

Good looking valve cover. 

57 minutes ago, gwri8 said:

Also, be sure to plug those FI holes before you drop something down there. I'm sure you're not looking for a reason to pull the head.

I pulled the O-rings and plugged the holes.  Life has taught me that 1-in-100 odds of dropping something into a hole means it's almost certain to happen, unless I want to do it, in which case it won't happen in 500 attempts.

 I like the onion analogy. Layer upon layer of corrosion. Patience is the key to removing stuck fasteners. Wire brushing exposed threads, plenty of soak time, a rap with a hammer, heat and last but not least, I usually try to tighten the screw or bolt before loosening. Often times there is enough clearance in the threads to break it loose. 

gwri8

 Is it possible when relating the extent of your "intimate" Z knowledge, you referred your car as HER? It might explain the look you received.

 

4 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

gwri8

 Is it possible when relating the extent of your "intimate" Z knowledge, you referred your car as HER? It might explain the look you received.

 

Nope, I rarely refer to my Z as "Her".  Depending whether I'm driving or bent over doing something like tool man is doing,  I sometimes use other colorful descriptive language though.  Plus, when I said girl, I should have mentioned she was about 275lbs.  I'm no lightweight, but I think she could have owned me .

To get the studs out, first clean them off really good with a small wire brush.  Second, mix up a 50/50 mix of red Dexron 3 auto. trans fluid and acetone.  I bought a bottle with a syringe on top that allows me to apply it in very tight areas with pin point accuracy.  Apply it several times over the course of a few hours and even a few days if needed.  Put two nuts on top backed up against one another and try turning the stud.  Don't force it as it will break.  If needed, get a propane torch and heat up the metal around the studs but not the studs themselves.  As always, keep a fire extinguisher close for safety.

Syringe Top Bottle - http://www.amazon.com/Needle-Dropper-Bottles-E-liquids-Liquids/dp/B00P0D4BRU

1 hour ago, Mark Maras said:

 I like the onion analogy. Layer upon layer of corrosion. 

That is good one. Each layer makes me cry a little more.

Hardways dextron/acetone works weĺl. I had two of these injector bolts break off on a 280ZX manifold. I got them out by gripping them with a pair of vice grips and firmly tapping the end of the stud with a hammer while using firm pressure to turn the bolt. Just don't over do it or you could break off the bolt. Patience is the key to succeedung.

One of the bolts took a lot to gef out. I think I tapped it 100 times before it leg go.

Don't forget heat.  Even a little causes enough expansion to make a difference.

On 2/29/2016 at 8:26 PM, rossiz said:

 

oh, and i have a completely re-built efi system that i gotta sell, including new injectors, hoses, shaved/polished manifold, wire harness, ecu, afm, throttle body, the works.

Interested. PM me with details, pics and price.

Thanks,

Dave