Source for OEM electrical connectors

[Chickenman]

^ Yes, that's a very nice crimper.

[the_tool_man]

Crimper tool and pin extraction tools are ordered.  Made contact with Kurk about a connector kit.  Thanks for the help.

Edited February 22, 2016 by the_tool_man

[Captain Obvious]

If it's not too late, you might want to order a couple extra of the crimp contacts in case you get a couple that you have to re-do. I don't know how much experience you have with that kind of work, but it often requires "the knack". Wouldn't be surprised if you got a couple crimps that don't turn out as nice as you wish until you Get The Knack.

I think I've got some of those kinds of parts in a box somewhere... If I can find that box, I'll take some pics of what I have.

Also, out of curiosity... If you're putting new crimp contacts on the wires, then what do you need the extractor tools for? The old contacts are all green and corroded anyway. Aren't you just going to clip them of the ends of the wires? 

[zKars]

While all you electrical geniuses are changing terminal ends, pay attention to the corrosion on the strands of wire when you strip the wire insulation. If they aren't shiny copper color (and they rarely are in my experience for any under-hood wiring), then you have to clean the individual strands before re-crimping or you're not gaining much. Might just as well clean the existing terminals.

Separate the strands with an exacto knife and scrap them clean or use a good electrical cleaner such as "De-oxit" D series contact cleaner, not just IPA (and I'm not talking hoppie beer either). Vinegar and a rinse works too, just slower.

[Zed Head]

Many of us use our cars as "reasons" to buy new tools/toys but really, cutting wires, stripping the ends, and reconnecting with naked butt connectors and shrink tubing would be a perfectly viable way to get it done, as far as functionality.  Makes some people queasy but the method has survived the test of time.  Once it's done and the AFM is plugged back in, you might never remove it again.

[rossiz]

huh-huh-huh... he said naked butt!

[Chickenman]

Another tip, if you really want to make things neat and tidy, is to use a Nylon braided wire covering to bundle the new wires( or old wires ) I use products from TechFlex. Normally their " Clean Cut " sleeving as it can be cut with scissors and doesn't " unravel " like normal Nylon braid.

I normally use  https://www.wirecare.com/ They also have a large selection of specialty sleeving and foil sheeting  for extreme heat protection, Deutsch connectors ( Luv these ) Shrink wraps, Tools ( including crimpers and heat guns and all sorts of nifty products that can be used in Automotive applications. One of the cheaper places to get Volcano wrap for headers. . Shipping is a bit expensive from them though.

[zKars]

Wirecare sure has some great products, thanks for that tip!

Chickenman, TechFlex Clean Cut can be purchased from B&E electronics in Calgary. http://www.be-electronics.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=techflex  Maybe a cheaper source for you. I have to stock up again, let me know if I can toss some in the mail for you. 

[Chickenman]

Thanks Jim but I'm good. But I just found out that my local supplier ( MRO )  now carries TechFlex Clean Cut.  In fact I just picked some more up today. They don't carry the high heat or extreme heat stuff though. I normally order that through Wirecare. They do have some nice products...

Edited February 21, 2016 by Chickenman

[Namerow]

21 hours ago, zKars said:

While all you electrical geniuses are changing terminal ends, pay attention to the corrosion on the strands of wire when you strip the wire insulation. If they aren't shiny copper color (and they rarely are in my experience for any under-hood wiring), then you have to clean the individual strands before re-crimping or you're not gaining much. Might just as well clean the existing terminals.

Separate the strands with an exacto knife and scrap them clean or use a good electrical cleaner such as "De-oxit" D series contact cleaner, not just IPA (and I'm not talking hoppie beer either). Vinegar and a rinse works too, just slower.

What Jim said.  The forty-year-old copper wiring will often be coated with a hard black tarnish.  In fact, out of curiosity I completely stripped off all the insulation from one of my harness-to-headlight wires and found that the surface corrosion on the wire strands extended over pretty much the whole length of the wire.  Doesn't impair the actual conductivity of the strands, but it will create high resistance at a mechanical connection (and it won't take solder, either).

FWIW, I've had good results cleaning up the wire ends, pre-crimp, using a wire wheel (steel works faster than brass) in my Dremel rotary tool.  Orient the wire wheel so that it spins along (rather than across) the wire strands.

[Captain Obvious]

I found my box of connectors and snapped a couple pics. Here's some options for AFM connectors.

Original brittle shell and cracked dry-rotted boot on top, and two new options below:

The bottom left has a boot retaining feature similar to the OEM connector shell, and the one on the right has a redundant contact retaining hinged door to help hold the contacts in place:

Here's another shot so you can see how the hinged contact retaining lid works:

 

[Zed Head]

Do you know what cars they came from?  Nice shot of the slot in the Datsun connector, with no retaining wire in it.