HI-6 with stock 240z distributor ?

[Chickenman]

I have the Haltech up and running now on my Bench tester. All systems are working fine. Playing with Fuel and Ignition Maps, calibrating sensors etc and just generally getting used to the software. Already found a few " Quirks " in the HalTech program, which would have driven you nuts if you had it on the car and didn't know WTF it was doing. It's always a good idea to bench test before doing the actual install IMHO. Particularly on older systems with little or no support from the manufacturer.....

 I somehow ended up with an E11 version 1... which were " supposedly " all recalled and upgraded for free by 2005. Seems some weren't returned. There were some issues on Rotary engines with Version 1, OK with piston engines. HalTech changed some components. I did add a heat-sink to the CPU as the early versions tended to over heat ( one of the problems on Rotary's ). Biggest problem was lack of software. I bought the unit used and it had no software. Didn't think it would be an issue, but Haltech only has Version 2 software available for download. I was not aware of the Version history and back story when I bought the unit...

Long story short... HalTech has a company policy of ZERO support for the E11 V1. Their Techs aren't allowed to send you software even if they have it in their archives. Had to sort it out on my own or unit was useless. I ended up running Version 2 HalWin 1.62 software on it, and was able to successfully update the Firmware on the ECU to  build 29 ( from build 16 ), That particular Firmware build number was compatible with BOTH earlier ECU unit and the later software. It took a LOT of work on my part comparing files etc,  but I don't give up easily.  Edit : Also running on HalWin 1.62 on Win 7 64 bit... even though HalWin 1.62 is a 16 bit proggy... Fascinating stuff to me. And yet I can't paint a wall worth a damn..... go figure.

Waiting for weather to warm up a bit. Then I'm replacing the injectors on the 280Z and going to get it Dynoed for a baseline on the Stock ECU. Then we'll install the HalTech, tune it on the Dyno and compare results. Probably won't do this till sometime in March.

Edited February 18, 2016 by Chickenman
Spelling

[Chickenman]

Stanley... I have a Crane Hi-6, a Hi-6S and COP LS2 truck coils. Haven't decided what ignition system to run on the 280Z with the HalTech, but I'm leaning towards the Hi-6 with the 280ZX Turbo dizzy. I like the retro look of the plug lead wires on an L6. Waiting on weather to warm up a bit.

The Technoversion Tach Match TM03 might be the easy way to go with the Crane HI-6. Cheaper than the MSD and Crane Tach adapters as well. Or use a 280Z Tach.

http://www.technoversions.com/TachMatchHome.html

Edit: All of these Tach adapters are just signal convertors. They convert the square wave output of the Ignition Box Tach output wire into an " old school " Sine wave or current pulse that older Tachs can work with.

Edited February 18, 2016 by Chickenman
Added link

[Chickenman]

One of the interesting things about the Crane Hi-6 is that it has a Tach Test Mode. You can hook up your Tach and it will run through a series of tests. MSD 6AL doesn't have this feature. You can also calibrate the Tach by setting the Digital Rev limiter on the HI-6 to a set figure, running the engine up with no load till the Rev limiter kicks in and then adjusting your Tach to match. Factory Tachs are notoriously inaccurate.

BTW, the Crane Rev Limiter system ( Patented ) is one of the most sophisticated on the market. It's not a harsh system like the early MSD 6AL series. No harsh Bangs or Pops ever!!  (  or Explosions with Nitrous!! ).

Crane HI-6 Instructions

Quote

TACH TEST FEATURE
Selection of the tach test mode is explained in rev
limiter section above. During tach test mode, the green
tach wire is used to output a tach test signal when the ignition switch is turned on. Note that the engine will not run if
tach test mode is selected. To leave tach test mode, you
must change back to normal rev limit switch settings and
turn the ignition switch off and then on again so the HI-6
will read the new switch settings.

All HI-6 units have step and slow ramp tach test
modes. The step mode is useful for quickly testing accuracy and transient response of the tach. Slow ramp mode is
useful for testing RPM activated accessories such as a
shift light. The tach test feature cannot be used if an external Crane rev limiter is connected to the blue cylinder
select wire. Note that the test feature can only be used if
the tach is connected to the HI-6 green tach output wire.

03 Tach test step mode. Causes tach to step from
1,000 to 10,000 RPM in 1,000 RPM increments.

04 Tach test ramp mode. Causes tach to slowly ramp
from 200 to 10,000 RPM.

 

Edited February 18, 2016 by Chickenman

[Chickenman]

Regarding points. If you do choose to run them, note that you must remember to remove the Points condensor on the side of the dizzy. This is because of the low voltage and current that the Ignition box uses. Points contact wear is virtually none existent. However the rubbing block can still wear. You could swap in a 260Z or 280Z Variable Reluctor dizzy. Lots of those available used for relatively little money. RA also sells re-manufactured A1-Cardone distributors for as little as $89.29 . Curiously, the Federal model ( 31617 )  with two pickup coils is cheaper than the single coil models ( 31618 ):

Datsun 280Z distributor 1975/1976

 

 

Quote

EARLY VEHICLES WITH POINTS

Directly triggering the HI-6 from mechanical
breaker points is possible but not recommended, due to
problems with points bounce and wear. If you must trigger
from points, use the hookup shown in Figure 2. Be sure to
remove the condensor. You will no longer be able to use a
dwell meter. However, the points gap is not critical when
the points are only used for triggering and do not carry any
coil current. Use a feeler gauge and set the points gap to
.016".

A much better approach is to replace the mechanical breaker points with an optical trigger system, such as Crane P/N 715-0020. This will provide more stable timing and extend the RPM range.

 

Edited February 18, 2016 by Chickenman

[Stanley]

Thank you, some good ideas. I researched the tach in 2014 and came to the conclusion it was current-driven, don't remember how I got the information. Build date for my '73 is 9/72. Attached is a pdf photo of my  tach. Wonder what all those wires are and where they go.

The TachMatch TM-03 looks pretty cool. They mention using for early 70's Datsuns, it does voltage and current driven tachs, and you get your money back if you can't make it work. A lot to like. My electric skill/confidence level is fairly low (I was boy radio genius - what happened ?) but looks like this little box could make it a lot easier.

tach reduced pdf.pdf

[Chickenman]

Yes, it's a pretty slick device. Better than the MSD and Crane units IMHO.