Drivers side door locking mechanism

[JCAR]

I need the door locking mechanism for the drivers side door of my 1972 240Z. I'm not exactly sure what the piece is called but its stopped working after years of use and no the door won't close. If anyone has one for sale or knows where to get one. I tried craiglist or ebay but no luck.

Edited February 25, 2016 by JCAR

[Namerow]

That is the 'Assy-Lock Door LH' (Nissan PN 80501-E4100).  You can't see most of it in the photo, because it's on the other side of the door panel.  The part of the Lock Assy that you can see from the outside (per your photo) is sometimes referred to as the Latch.  The little plate below it is called a Dovetail.

Shouldn't be hard to find a replacement Lock Assy.  Unfortunately, they come equipped with lock/latch control rods that are very hard to disassemble from the actual Lock unit, so you'll probably need to buy one as a complete unit.  Z Car Source of of Arizona offer them for about $225 (used).  I suspect that somebody on this site might be willing to offer you one for a lot less.

Yours can probably be fixed, though.  In fact, it may not need fixing at all.  Instead, your Striker Plate (the part on the door jamb) may be mis-aligned, in which case the door won't latch closed properly.  There are some very good write-ups on this site for how to carry out the lock/latch/striker alignment process.  The best one, IIRC, was done by our late friend EScanlon.

In addition, I see that at least one of the two engagement lobes on your latch has lost its rubber cover.  It's been documented by others that this apparently minor reduction to the outside dimensions of the lobe can cause the door to not latch properly.  You can buy new rubber covers inexpensively from Steve at www.240zrubberparts.com. 

I also see that someone has replaced one of the mounting screws for your Lock assembly with a slot-head screw.  It should, instead, be a stubby countersunk machine screw (like the two used on the bottom of the Lock, and also on the Dovetail.  Of the three csk machine screws used to mount the Lock to the door, two are 12mm long while the third is only 10mm long.  IIRC, the 10mm screw belongs in the lower inboard hole.  If one of the long, 12mm screws finds its way into that hole, it can block the Lock's action.  Check this on your Lock, just to be sure.  If necessary, you can steal one of the mounting screws from the Dovetail (which are also the short, 10mm variety -- or, at least, they should be).

A bent control rod (inside the door) may cause problems of a different kind -- either with locking (via the lock button), or with unlatching (via the inside door handle).

A control rod that's fallen out of its socket could cause similar problems.  You'll need a new plastic socket insert to fix this.

Lubrication of the lock assembly might be possible without taking the door apart, but you're going to need a very long spray wand to get the lubricant into the right places (lubricating from the outside, per your photo, will only accomplish 20% of the job).  A good-quality penetrating oil will probably be a better bet than WD-40.  You'll probably need to pull the interior door trim panel off to do this job properly (be careful -- these panels are expen$ive to replace and they're easy to break if you don't use care and a proper trim removal tool).

If you need to replace or fix any of the innards of the lock assembly, you may need to take the door apart.  Read and follow the procedures in the FSM. 

I suggest you start by replacing the rubber pieces, checking the mounting screws, doing a visual check of the internal control rods, and lubing the Lock assy (from the inside).  Then do a check on the Lock's latching action by exercising it with the door handles and the lock push button.  Make sure the latch/lobe piece is rotating and releasing freely.  If all looks good, get the latch back to its neutral position and then try closing the door.  If there's still a problem, it'll be time to check the adjustment of the striker plate.

It will probably help if you can describe exactly how it is that your door, 'doesn't close'.

[JCAR]

Thanks, Ill try that. I tried lubing the latch and it spun into the wrong position. I was able to get the latch working again temporarily, but I think it's only a time till it needs to be replaced. 

[Namerow]

The Latch works on a kind of ratcheting principle.  Hard to visualize until you play with one that's been removed from the door.  If you get it cocked into the 'latched' position, you should be able to get it to release by pulling on the inside door handle.  The hidden workings of the Lock (i.e. on the other side of door, per your photo) can get pretty gummed up and rusty, so getting lubricant in there is a lot more helpful than trying to oil from the outside (which only addresses one of the many moving parts in the assembly).

[Shawninvancouver]

Can these door latches be fixed?? mine will NOT click in to place..  it just springs back and forth without click stoping when i flick it with my finger ( no click stop.)  - can that be fixed by taking it out of door??

thanks

[Zed Head]

 

[Shawninvancouver]

Ok Zed -  can they be fixed?

[Zed Head]

You're going to have to give a better description than "no click stop when I flick it with my finger".  Make a video.