Order of base interior parts

[Careless]

Hi everyone,

I am about ready to start the interior restoration process of the early Series 1, 1970 240z... and I am curious to know if there are going to be any "gotcha!" moments when installing things on the bare painted chassis from the ground up. There are literally no parts on the chassis interior.

I've made a list below. If anyone has insight- that's be helpful!

1) I am not sure if I should use some sort of sticky tape to make it removable at some point, or if I should do it how they did it from factory and glue it down. Suggestions?

2) What should the general order of things be? Should I put down the transmission hump pieces first, then put the firewall insulator, and then the rear towers? 

3) Wiring? I haven't taken apart the '71 parts car to inspect the routing, and I'm afraid to pull it apart since it's all complete. I'd like to keep it relatively intact so that it can be sold afterwards, because I haven't really taken any parts from it, as they required just as much work as the car I'm restoring- so if anyone has pictures of wire routing, that'd be nice!

4) Are there any sources for carpet Jute padding that is similar to the OE stuff. Slightly brown rather than recycled coloured/grey bits? I know it may be harder to find, but I find that it looks a little more authentic- though the grey stuff is a viable option if it's the only one. lol.

5) If purchasing the Jute padding- what is the OZ/Thickeness required for the datsun. Every piece I try to measure looks either impacted or frayed apart, and I don't think it's a suitable comparison. 

6) I'm completely lost as far as the individual foams and whatnot that get attached to the air ducts. I have some 1/16th thick foam at the shop with some adhesive backing on one side, though I'm not sure what it's for. I believe it may have been used for quite the same thing- so I might use that. It looks "squishy" enough and not overly spongey so that it would impact fitment. Are there any certain foams required for other parts?

 

I'm not sure if the info in Wick Humble's book is adequate, I'll have to double check in the mean time.

 

Any general information regarding the interior dressing and preparation as well as any hidden tricks or terrors would be awesome- and please post any pics you like.

Edited February 26, 2016 by Careless

[Zup]

Regarding the jute-----

 

http://www.newportupholstery.com/auto_underfelt.htm

This is a promising source from Canada/US very similar to what I used.

 

http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials9.35/38.php

This is what I used in the restoration of my 7/70 240Z.

The jute from The Roadster Factory is very close to the original in thickness and texture. An added bonus was that it came in 54" wide rolls which allowed cutting without piecing to make up the largest areas. I am quite pleased with the way it turned out.

 

[CanTechZ]

You haven't mentioned a replacement for the original tar mats that were applied to the floors and rear deck areas. From what I have read Q-pads from Evercoat seem to be the most like OEM as compared to something like Dynamat. Just wondering what you have planned to use.

Mike

Edited February 26, 2016 by CanTechZ

[Pop's Z]

I used Q-pads in my interior to replace the old tar mat. They are close to original, but have a shiny surface finish. I don't remember if the original tar mat was shiny or dull. You will need a some kind of roller to install them to get all the nooks and crannies stuck down. I also put some in the doors to quiet things down and that worked well. The doors "thunk" when closing rather than the tinny sound of stock.

 

Cheers, mike

[Zup]

Regarding the original tar mat---

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49853-replacement-tar-mat/#comment-453543

I used the Wurth tar mat to attempt reproducing the original mats. It worked very well. I deviated from original by painting the floor board areas first, then applying the mat, then painting over it all so that it matches the original painted surface treatment.

 

HTH

Jim D.

"Zup"

[grannyknot]

Do the headliner first, then the headliner skirt, A pillars, then windshield. A big piece of cardbord on the floor will keep the bruises to a minimum. Those few things will have you doing gymnastics inside the car, you'll be glad you don't have anything in there to get scuffed up.

[Careless]

I do know for sure that there is a tar mat on the transmission tunnel. I don't think there is any on the floor boards right now. damnit. I don't even have a reference for that stuff at this point. 

Edited February 28, 2016 by Careless

[26th-Z]

The thread posted by Zup is very good.  I don't think I have ever posted pictures of the real stuff.  I was fortunate enough to buy this many, many years ago.  These pictures have been brightened enough so that you can see what the actual material is.  The insulation material is an asphaltic impregnated felt material; very thin and brittle in a room temperature state.  It is around 1/32" thick - like a #120 0r #140 felt paper, however it is much more bitumen than felt.  The brown spots of fibrous felt can be seen as more of a binder material.  You can see that it is manufactured through a roller process.  The surface finish is rough which indicates to me that the material was heated during the rolling process.  The sheets I show are for replacement floor insulation.  Applied with a heat gun - of course.

Edited February 28, 2016 by 26th-Z

[Careless]

Interesting. So it's closer to the bitumen roof underlayment than I had previously suspected.

Now if only I could borrow some templates...

[Zup]

Be careful with any ideas of using roof underlayment.

You will not want the smell and it may not stick as nicely to the sharp deformations in the pans. I initially tried it and then butyl rubber sheeting. They were not at all as good for the purpose as the Wurth mat which is made for original replacement in Porsches. It is not that expensive and it is a quality product.

[26th-Z]

I agree.  It IS 'like' roof underlayment but with much more asphaltic bitumen composition.  It needs to be quite hot to work with it.  Hotter than a hair dryer.  I don't see any problem with the Wurth mat.

[Careless]

I love Wurth products, every single one I've ever purchased has performed exactly as advertised- if not better.

Is this Wurth stuff the same thickness as the OE stuff? I'm going to take the front nose panel with me to get paint matched in a single stage paint that is slightly more "soupey" than normal, and roll it on in layers once the mat is down. I'll have to paint the edges and ends with a paint brush to not get any overlap onto the body. I want to do it as cleanly as possible. I think having the paint a little more "runny" will allow it to level out a bit better and reduce brush strokes. The matting should soak a bit of it anyways. At this point, I don't think spraying is an option. 

As for bonding to the floor. I have a number of heat guns with varying levels of heat output. I think they will be ok. I see the tools you used, Zup- I'll use some copper plate to make a similar "trowel" tool and approach it the same way. I don't think it will damage the current paint on the floorboards.

 

I never saw an update on the Chester & Herrods carpet, but I gather- from general consensus- that it's the most true-to-factory style carpet? I am thinking of calling them up on Monday and putting in an order.

I have the original carpet, it's just not in very good condition- definately not resto quality. Do they only do the floor piece, or the rest of the loop/pile pieces as well (and are they good?). I don't think anyone ever mentioned those pieces in the threads I've been reading.

 

Edited March 11, 2016 by Careless