No problems.

Id actually recommend that you put POR15 on the bare metal after the repairs are made before you paint etc. For it to work effectively it needs to be painted on either bare metal or rusted metal. Bare metal requires a prepping medium before the POR15 is applied; this is also available from the guys at PPC.

For a temp measure you could try some cheaper rust converter available at auto stores or even fish oil the heck out of the area.

Good luck, looks nasty.

Joseph

I'm in the process of stripping back everything front of the windscreen, if I ever get through the tar undercoat that is. After I get all of it stripped back I'm going to give it a coating of POR-15.

I'll get some photos after I finished and post them here. Hope this POR stuff is as good as everyone says.

It is.

Follow the directions carefully though and if you intend to spray it on make sure you only use the thinner that they recommend, it is also available from them.

I have heard horror stories before where a different brand thinner has been used, then the POR15 topcoated with the final coat only to find that it all peels off and you have to start again.

Again, follow the directions carefully if you intend to spray it.

Joseph

Thanks for the advice Joseph.

I'm pretty sure I'll just brush it on. Yours is the 2nd horror story I've heard about spraying on POR-15 so I think I'll just avoid the whole issue. I'm not hugely concerned about the finish as long as it stays reasonabe, I just want make sure I knock the rust problem on the head as best i can.

Of course the decision is made easier by the fact that I have no spraying equipment.:stupid:

By the way, once you have scarped off the majority of the tar undercoat I have found that carb cleaner is amazingly good at removing the remaining residue. Just in case anyone else is having the same issues as I am now or in the future.

I just discovered that at the front of my left hand rail it was full of bog!

****ing bog!

The rail appears to be fine apart from being a bit dented.....they've just made it look flat again with bog. Would you imagine this would be a big problem?

Also, can anyone give me a rough idea of how many $$$ I am looking at to have a rail cut out, a little rust work and a new rail welded in?

Btw I should have details on where to source the rails in Australia by the end of tomorrow.

dude good on you for taking it so well (or appearing to be!). I know I'd be crapping my pants if I had just spent heaps on a beautiful looking Z only to discover the rails are shot.

If you are going to be doing any work yourself in 3 weeks time I can come up and help you - not that I have any more experience than you but 2 sets of hands are always better than 1 huh? I feel for you man...

3 weeks is when my final exams and my final 4 assignmetns have all been finished. Before that I'm just way too backed up with work. :(

Let us know about your quotes...

Don't stress mate, you'll get it sorted.

Keep us posted with progress, you've been given some pretty good advice so far!

The crappy thing is that 90% of Zed's in Aus have had the rough-end dealt to them & it takes a the right owner to make things right. My car had big holes in the floor & both rails had rusted out (under the floor). We had new rails bent-up at a sheetmetal workshop & extended them all the way to the back of the floor (as per 260Z).

I also discovered that someone had welded a new rear-quarter on the car & not joined it at the lead-wiping. The other rear-quarter was very rippled too!!!

I have had the body fully restored & it's all good now:classic:

I'm not sure about the law in Aus, but you certainly would have legal recourse in the U.S. against the person who sold you the car if you can prove that they knew about the cover-up. It was obviously done by someone who knew the problem and covered it up. In a U.S small claims court they would be ordered to pay for the repairs or refund your money up to $5,000!

God bless all of our sons and daughters at war.

Unfortunately in Aus there is such a thing as, as is where is. Which means your on your own. You could take it to small claims court but it is your word against theirs, and it could drag on for years and cost more than it's worth. Different states have different laws but that's the general rule.

Been there, had it done to me.

Alan.

I was living at West End , Townsville in the early eighties and

in 1985/86 a local car whole sale car yard in Townsville across Ingham road from the Showgrounds lost their dealers operating licence. They tried to sell a red 240Z with major frame damage, loosely covered up by a dodgy brothers repair. Main Roads Department QLD persuied the case. The repair was considered so dangerous, that Main Roads Department QLD impounded the Zed and considered it to dangerous for the road ever. Instant red sticker.

My question did this car get out of jail and if so how. If this is your car there will be court records in Townsville Court House circa 1985/86 that will have the chassis number and all. This would open a can of worms. I thought it was the same car when I heard your explanation of the damage area , when I saw the photos I was sure.

As for the repair I wish you luck, it will not be cheap, but if you can do it will be very satisfying.

cheers

Steve

:classic:

I hope that is the case for you, and it can be sorted out. But surely to re rego it, they would have changed all the identity plates and firewall numbers? Or do the compliance plate and the firewall disagree? I really hope it works out

Sounds like a possibility. Although after 20 odd years of the car being impounded dont you think it might be a little MORE rusted? There are lots of red rusted Z's around, being honest and sensible chances are this is a different car.

But YES it is still worth looking into I think, but beforeyou do, was your car a 240 or 260? I had a feeling it wasa 260?