Working on a biddies Z where his signals just stopped working all together. One day both blinked fine. Next day, nothing. No solid light or anything. Just move the wand and no signals. I checked and all the bulbs appear to be fine. I had a Beretta that did this once and I swapped out the signal thingie (technical name ya know) under the dash and they worked after that. Any thoughts?

1. check fuses. Pull them OUT to test.

2. Open the steering collumn "clamshell" enclosure for the turn-signal indicator stalk. Clean out the "fuzz" and other crap that collects in there which can stop the mechanism from operating. Re-lube with a light dab of grease the places where metal parts move against each other. Spray contact cleaner into the switch assembly, let dry. Turn on key and Test the signals. If it works, Re-Install clamshell.

3. If #1 and #2 don't resolve the issue, it's time to break out the ohm-meter and start tracing power and ground circuits.

Sounds...yucky.

Originally posted by Timberwolf

Sounds...yucky.

From my point of view, electrical problems usually are YUCKY.

Well, You know, it is rather "yucky" to get screwed by the electrical thing.

If you remember, I had the single signal failure issue.

I applied all of the techniques described at on point or another in the battle.

The signal "pods" can cause failure, however it should only be a front or back failiure, there are front and back signal "pods".

A fuse or the fuse box is a more likely cause of complete failure or as in my case, the signal switching unit on the column stalk can cause intermitent, partial or complete failure.

I disassembled mine, cleaned with solvents and emery cloth, resoldered all connections at the switch and at the fuse box an relubed the moving parts.

Amazingly all signals work perfectly now with a very positive "throw". This stalk switch is made of primitive circut materials, inexpensive metal composites and very old solder.

Check it out...

keith

Sorry guys, I made a mistake on the "pods".

There are two pod type switches. One is for the indicators and the other is for the hazards. There are several different wiring harness with different connectors and pod types based on early and late model 240 z's.

I have not found a wiring diagram that fits the exact wiring in my car. It seems to be a hybrid of both early and late model harness and component assembly. You computor guys might call this a migration model.

I have found that using "best practices" based on real architecture has worked well in determining actual causation.

Good luck...

keith

I had a similar problem with my zed at about 4:30 in the avo, the day before I had to drive it 1400km home.

After some hair pulling we realised it was just the indicator relay (pod). Pulled the one out of Paul's Ford Laser and off we went.

Mind you the actual indicator switches could use a good clean as they wont go on with out a decent shove. Just another item on my to do list.

I had this problem, I bet twenty bucks its the little round flasher thing under your dash (there are two make sure you have the right one, its in the center of the dash underneath. Replaced it for 4 bucks in mine. Blink, blink and bling bling.

Frankenstein Z

My latest Z's turn signals dont work either. They all work fine using the hazard switch but using the stalk does nothing. I removed it and it was spotless, very clean and almost looked new. I couldnt spot any obvious faults or bad joints so I am confused.

Also the reverse lights dont work...

Any advice would be great

when my signals died it ended up being the hazard switch itself, near drove me crazy trying to figure it out. I tried every fix listed in these forums.

Just another note to everyone about these signal lights. I installed a dash cover (sorry to u perfectionists) and after a few months my signals didn't work. After a thorough 12 hours, I found that the dash cover had ever so slightly bumped up my hazard switch (not enough to make the hazard lights work) but enough to stop the signals from working. The hazard switch is in line with the signals and if it is not making contact in the off position, the signals won't work. Just something to keep in mind...make sure the hazard switch is completely OFF!:stupid: