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Seat upgrade -350z seats


madkaw

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  • 1 month later...

  • 1 year later...

Glad I found this thread. I re-foamed & upholstered my original Z seats in leather. They look great, but are really uncomfortable & lacking in support. I have lower back issues & sliding around on the seat just doesn't work for me. 

Since I'm getting a 2006 350Z in a couple weeks to use for a drivetrain conversion in my 75 280Z, I think I'll add the seats to the work. Probably do them long before the drivetrain, actually.

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I liked my 240 seats until It went on the track. I couldn't believe how much I slid from right to left and left to right. One shouldn't have to concentrate on staying in the seat while keeping the car on the road.The next race I packed myself in with a pillow on each side. That helped a great deal but seats that fit would be a major improvement when it comes to spirited driving.

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  • 6 months later...

Took the seats out of the 350Z today, and moved the car into her (my mother) backyard, out of the way for her winter driveway access

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Have to cut a section of the harness for each seat tomorrow

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Power, heater & SRS

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broke the pass seat switch, bent the bracket - seat was behind the car & I backed into it  

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Thankfully, I didn't damage the seat itself

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Cut off the rail standoffs

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2 rivets & 2 spot welds for each leg

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Assuming these elements are for crash protection - I may want to add them back

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Put some paint on the ground-down areas, to protect it for now

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Edited by HusseinHolland
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Took the seat power & heater wiring out of the 350Z

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Couple of issues. I neglected to mark the fore/aft setting of the outer rail before I cut off the standoffs, and observe the stock rake of the cushion in the 350Z.

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What I have found is that the 350Z rails sit precisely outboard of the 1/8" 1.5"x.5" C channel rails I'm making.  Figure it's significantly more rigid than flat stock.

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I'll possibly add cross braces of C channel. I'll tack the 350Z rails to these first, after I fill-weld the cuts. 

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doesn't look like the seat cushion / base will hit anywhere at this drop though

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Have to figure out if I can dismantle the rails to allow for welding the new with the existing. Don't want to melt the plastic guide inserts.

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Clearances

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Recliner is up against the 280Z belt reel guide, without the protective cover. Probably won't be keeping the stock belts. I'll leave the trim off until I figure that out.

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up against the ledge, pretty much

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tangs for retaining outer cover have to be removed, hits the cross frame

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Placement.  As far back as it can sit, cushion is still further forward than the driver's seat

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Like this, it sits lower than the stock seat cushion , feels comfortable as is. 

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On 4/6/2016 at 7:54 PM, jfa.series1 said:

Mount them in reverse of the instructions: retractor at the quarter window using the OE shoulder belt bolts, the other end at the outboard floor mount.  The retractor should pivot freely if you've used the plastic bushings.  You should be able to sit in the seat and pull the belt across your body towards the tunnel.  By sash guide, do you mean a plastic cover over the latch belt?  The latch belt mounts to the inboard location at the tunnel.  For my install I had to add some angle to the bracket to get it to seat properly against the floorboard.  Let me know if this all works out.

Edit:

OK, I jumped over to the WESCO site and may have spotted the issue.  The belt you want is called the Roadster Retractable and you should get the 11" rigid sleeve end.  This belt does not have a sash.  I have the standard buckle but you have choices for extra $.  Sorry for any confusion on model.

Jim

Went back through to find this (many thanks for the details) - The stock belts just won't work if I want to add the 350Z outer mechanism trim - which is a must - 

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So I've ordered the Wesco Roadster Retractables w/ 11" receiver sleeve.

That should allow me to adjust the angle of the mounting rails very slightly outboard at the rear, which will give me at least a inch or two of rearward movement.

Edited by HusseinHolland
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8 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Has all your seat work to date been on the right side seat? I ask because the left seat may be a little more complicated if your car has a bulge in the floor for a catalytic converter. It started in CA first, but not sure what year they started that.

In mine, L& R floor / seat frames are the same

early pic:

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