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Seat upgrade -350z seats


madkaw

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On 12/11/2023 at 11:06 AM, HusseinHolland said:

 Do you have any pics of the reel mount under the cover? Presumablay adjusted in some way to allow for the strut brace.

I don't have any really good pics showing the belt reels, but i do think I have enough mediocre pics hoovered over the years to hopefully get the idea across.

Here's one with the seat belt mount in place:
Rear deck area1.jpg

And here's one with the interior stripped and you can see the mounting holes:
interior 78 3a.jpg

Hope that helps!

 

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14 hours ago, Patcon said:

That's a nice sized compressor!

BTW I am so glad you're here posting. Otherwise I would run out of stuff to read and that would be bad! :blink:

LOL

Actually has to go back - they damaged it in shipping, looked fixable at first, then noticed the motor mount plate is bent, pump tube is bent, the drive belt doesn't align, and a fin is broken off one  cylinder head. 

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14 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I don't have any really good pics showing the belt reels, but i do think I have enough mediocre pics hoovered over the years to hopefully get the idea across.

Here's one with the seat belt mount in place:

And here's one with the interior stripped and you can see the mounting holes:

Hope that helps!

Thanks CO! I didn't realize there was already a tower brace of sorts in place, I looked back  at some interior shoots of mine, and it appears I also have those

interior783a.thumb.jpg.a0c4fd07a1fcd622de79b44d93e74966.jpg screenshot-turbobricks.com-2023.12.14-12_24_44.png

 

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So, Home Depot is going to replace the compressor - what that actually means I have to buy another & return this one to get the refund. Kind of a PITA. The rep I spoke with was very apologetic & helpful though. I said that I felt an additional discount was in order for all the aggravation, wasted day off for the delivery (was supposed to come Tuesday, not Wednesday), etc. She discounted the compressor, and added their 'white glove' service (normally a $200 fee) which apparently is intended to make sure that an item is clear of damage prior to shipment, and again at point of delivery.

So, all in all, once  I get a good unit, it will be over $400 off the retail price.

All I got done after work was setting up the press & anchoring it to the platform I made behind the garage. I'm thinking I'll make an awning/ overhang the width of the garage (about 18') to make the platform more user friendly. I should have room to keep a number of larger items out here, albeit under tarps or covers.

PXL_20231214_214222302.jpg

Edited by HusseinHolland
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I bought a big Kobalt twin piston similar to your's. Left it on the pallet but put a rubber mat under the pallet to keep it in place. I didn't want to bolt it down. A couple of moisture traps and a brass drain off the bottom that empties into an old coffee container. Made sandblasting much easier. Also a small moisture trap with fittings to use right before the hvlp spray gun and the sandblast gun. Made things very much easier for me. I think @grannyknot has a small coolant condenser in line with his. One day I'll try and do that. Our humidity is horrible down here pretty much year round.

Very nice pump you have there.

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29 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I bought a big Kobalt twin piston similar to your's. Left it on the pallet but put a rubber mat under the pallet to keep it in place. I didn't want to bolt it down. A couple of moisture traps and a brass drain off the bottom that empties into an old coffee container. Made sandblasting much easier. Also a small moisture trap with fittings to use right before the hvlp spray gun and the sandblast gun. Made things very much easier for me. I think @grannyknot has a small coolant condenser in line with his. One day I'll try and do that. Our humidity is horrible down here pretty much year round.

Very nice pump you have there.

EDIT - not a bad idea to leave it on the pallet, I could just cut it down & put the rubber pad under as you said. I was going to bolt it to the floor with isolator pads, but that does create issues with drainage.

I painted my Fiat in my driveway (in a canopy) 5 years ago using the Husky & a even smaller pump in tandem - I want to be able to paint without worrying about pressure drops mid-spray , which happened several times. I'm retiring from my day job this summer, so I'll have more (uninterrupted) time for projects. I'll probably want to repaint the Z at some point in the future, along with the pickup truck I made.

DallaraPaint00162.jpg

Edited by HusseinHolland
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Back in the 350Z seats into the 280Z. Seat belt reel will (hopefully) be relocated to strut tower, like the later 77-78 280. Welded the rails I made to the 350Z rails, Checking that the seat was level to the car before tack welding. Used an weld mat to protect the interior. Removed to finish the welds. Wired the passenger seat (fore/aft only). Have to wire the seat heater

PXL_20231225_182204181.jpg

PXL_20231225_182325903.jpg

Looks good herePXL_20231225_182403487.jpg

I didn't seam weld these. There is a plastic guide rail inside that may (did) survive some heat, wouldn't trust it to survive a bead, especially on top 

PXL_20231225_185415345.jpg

Test fit after welding to check for distortion /displacement due to welding, all good sits level with no wobble in the rails

PXL_20231225_190857252.jpg

Testing wiring for seat fore/aft. I bought used 350z heater switches, however it will be easier (I hope) to rewire the seat grids to the aftermarket relay & switches I already have in place

PXL_20231225_210206978.jpg

Full forward settingPXL_20231225_205953444.MP.jpg

Seat sits substantially lower than stock height. Furthest possible recline in full rear positionPXL_20231225_211852177.MP.jpg

Wesco reel will hopefully go here. Does not feel like there is a metal plate under the cover, which may actually make it easier 

PXL_20231225_173140100.jpg

Edited by HusseinHolland
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As @Captain Obvious predicted - a beating was in order. Not really happy about pummelling the perfectly good and clean tunnel, so I was gentle at first & used a mallet & block of wood to gently invert the bulge. Problem is that there is a major panel overlap seam in the way, forward of the inner seat belt mount, rearward of the stock rear cross member/seat support. Had to break out the large dead blow to reshape that.

PXL_20231226_203019732.jpg

After the "gentle" mallet work

PXL_20231226_203344573.jpg

Beating administered. Cleanup & paint to come, on the underside also. Edit - that is glue on the inner forward seat  cross member , not Rust!

PXL_20231226_210954364.jpg

Now the seat can be made level without lifting the sill side

PXL_20231226_211309101.jpg

Side note - I guess Nissan wanted to build in the rusting process that was mostly resolved on the outside (compared to classic Z's anyway

PXL_20231226_214356028.jpg

Seat cushion controls clear the sill

PXL_20231226_215248051.jpg

Inside clearance matches the pas side

PXL_20231226_180757741.jpg

Slight problem in that the rail spacing is not even left to right - I have to make a wider rail conversion for this side. Fortunately a 2" "U" channel will take up the gap.

PXL_20231226_211323576.jpg

I don't want to simply cut & offset the bolt down points relative to the rail.

PXL_20231226_214434306.jpg

Edited by HusseinHolland
Add text,typo
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