Seat upgrade -350z seats

[HusseinHolland]

Got back from Baltimore yesterday afternoon, so back on the seat install today. Had to do some more pounding on the tunnel.  Metal only stretched so far, then it split, about 3" wide, a couple inches above the seat crossmember.

flange tore where the black paint is on the tunnel.

dynamat after paint

after that, I welded the rail adaptors - tacked in place, then removed to stitch  

plug for stock seat belt bolt hole

(Wesco) seat belt outer

Wesco seat belt inner , also added receiver snaps in the carpet for the leather handbrake cover

Driver's side, rear attachment

sill spacing - just clears the seat belt

Seat will be re-upholstered, just not today

pass seat out to install cushion, harness routing

Headrest cushions have to be stripped to fit the new leather covers, the original covers are glued to the foam

 

Edited January 2 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Daytime pic with headrest. New leather for the seats has the same green stitching. I also went with a dark grey inset for the perforated panels. Not sure it's dark enough though. Seems more like a medium grey to me. Pics later

Edited January 2 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

I found another wiring issue - I noticed that the driver's seat wasn't working one day, so I swapped out the fuse - that lasted for several days, seat was working fine, then I came back to it about a week later & it was blown again. I swapped out the fuse, and operated the seat reaching over from the passenger side, worked just fine every time. A side issue of my own creation here is that I wired the switched feed to the power seats from the same fuse that governs the Volvo constant idle system - so on at least one occasion that fuse blew instead of the seat fuse, which meant no idle control & stalling condition on decel. Of course THAT happened when the wife was in the car, so now she feels even less safe driving around in the car. I have to rewire the feed so it has no impact on any other circuits.

Drove the car again & the fuse blew. So, my weight on the seat was a contributing factor - I thought I had been careful to route the wiring where there would be no contact. I found this (pic below) when I pulled the seat switch. I had already purchased a new one, since I had no idea what spect of the switch was shorting the fuse, so now I have a spare (sleeved the exposed wire).

EDIT- Looking through my seat install pics - I'd say the upturned channel lip is the problem.

Edited August 3 by HusseinHolland