Dash Lights

[TomoHawk]

The 14.4v rating is the Maximum working voltage the bulb can work with.

That's all that you needed to say,

or just

"Try it, You'll like it." :

thx

[jmark]

I count 12 bulbs in the instrument panel & guages. Is that correct?

[jmark]

I checked the Sylvania catalog and they call out bulb #194LL for the instrument panel. They don't mention #53 which looks more like what I pulled from my dash. 194LL looks more like a bayonet style bulb. What gives? FWIW I bought 7 packs of #53 bulbs @ $2.48/2 bulb pack at Advance Auto. I test fit one bulb and it fits fine. The Sylvania catalog calls for a 194LL bulb instead which looks nothing like the original/#53 bulbs.......

[EScanlon]

I'll have to go back and check to see what the Sylvania catalog says as I can't remember.

However, and this is both my observation and what I feel needs to be a cautionary note for other Z owners. I HAVE noticed in some catalogs that there is a tendency to "assume" by some manufacturers that because the 7X car used 12345 that 7X-1 also used the same.

With the Z's early year cars, there were various changes that did change year to year as well as items that were changed later and considered a RETRO-fit.

Also, don't forget that as time goes on, and demands for certain things drops off, manufacturers will combine items that differed by only one or two minor things. Sometimes it's this part supersedes that one, or this one supersedes those two. When you have an item that is now in it's second or third iteration of this cycle, then suddenly it doesn't fit.

I don't have any of the 194LL's that you mentioned. When I went to the store to try to find replacement dash bulbs, I had read TONS of comments on how the ones that the catalogs listed as the proper replacement did NOT fit the green lens inside the case. Or comments on how the green lens got melted, or ..... So I did what I was taught to do in the bodyshop, go VISUALLY and then mechanically. So I took one of the original bulbs and went to the store after having used my calipers on the instrument opening and the original bulb. Once there, the Sylvania #53 matched the original bulb to within a gnat's hair. I was able to cross reference the voltage and wattage and once out of the package dimensions. Went home, plugged it in it worked, no further questions your honor.

So you need to check the 194LL for yourself, especially if it's cheaper. But as long as I can get the 53's I'm set.

By the way, a BAYONET bulb is one where the pins that stick out from the side of the main cylinder body are at the same height. Typically this is done on single element bulbs where there is only one contact at the base. On bulbs where there are two bulbs of different values and the need to maintain the contacts for each separate, you'll find an offset bayonet (not sure of the exact trade name) this is where one of the pins will be located at a different point on the cylinder than the other. A good example of this are your 1156 and 1157 bulbs. The 1156 is a single element typically seen as "running lights" on most American cars. The 1157 is a double element where one is noticeably brighter than the other (brake and running in one bulb). The pins for the 1156 are on the same line since it doesn't matter which way you insert the bulb. The 1157 does have a specific need for the brighter element so the pin is offset and the bulb fits in only ONE direction.

Hope this helped you.

Enrique

For those desiring a short / quick answer:

I compared them and bought the one that matched. I don't need no "stinkin' catalogs".

E

[jmark]

Enrique,

I agree the #53 fits fine & is the same size physically. I wonder if the 194LL fits older Z's and not the '78 280Z I have. I bought all the #53's two stores had. Going to swap out an uncracked original dash for my covered/cracked one. I'll relamp everything at this time. I noticed a GE lamp that also looked like a good fit too. I beleive it was the #1445 you mentioned. I appreciate your help & expertise.

[jmark]

What wattage is the #53 bulb? Hope it is close to the OEM bulb. The box has no wattage rating only 12V.

[EScanlon]

I don't recall and the package I have doesn't list it either. If I recall (from an older package) it was either 3.5w or as Tomohawk pointed out 4w @14.4v.

I can tell you that my lights are nice and bright and that I even use the dimmer to bring the brightness down.

Enrique

[jmark]

I don't recall and the package I have doesn't list it either. If I recall (from an older package) it was either 3.5w or as Tomohawk pointed out 4w @14.4v.

I can tell you that my lights are nice and bright and that I even use the dimmer to bring the brightness down.

Enrique

That's what I want to hear. I'll let you know how it goes on Friday. Going to swap the cracked/covered dash out for the used uncracked dash & relamp all the guages with the #53 bulbs. Thanks!

[Curtis240Z]

I just purchase a 1970 240z that is in overall very good shape.

I noticed that the dash light is very dim. when I put on the gas it gets a little brighter but no where it should be. Could this be the coil or voltage switch???

As previously mentioned, this is a normal condition for the 240Z. The biggest improvement I've found is using the white face gauge laminates and isolating the headlights from the lighting circuit. Now the gauges are BRIGHT and the dash lights don't dim at idle Plus the headlights are WAY brighter!

[JLPurcell]

My 72 has the rheostat just to the right of the steering column and under the face of the dash if yours is the same then there are two screws or nuts one each side of the switch from the back. The black knob pulls off then the switch pushes throught to the back. There are two wires both red with blue trace one having a male and the other a female spade connector. Hope I'm not to late and hope this helps. JLP