$@#$-it !!

[MDyer]

Literally just a few days away from getting my car to the weld/paint shop. :classic:

Have to replace the alternator/VR and possibly battery, so I can drive it. Obviously, needs it anyway. So I bought the alternator yesterday.

Novice mechanic that I am, I was very pleased with my progress that I was making in removing the old alternator (loosened tensioning bolt, removed belt, disconnected all electric, removed lower bolt on backside). Wiggled, jiggled and tugged, then realized that there is a lower front bolt.... what a pain in the arse to get to (with fan/radiator in place).

Finally coaxed my fat fingers into getting a socket on the bugger. Barely enough "stroke" room to get the ratchet to "click" once per motion. Then.... the bolt snapped.:tapemouth

Now in the process of removing radiator and fan to get to the damn thing.

What's the best method to remove the remnants of the snapped bolt? Obviously, I want it to be thread-friendly.

[MikeW]

Originally posted by MDyer

What's the best method to remove the remnants of the snapped bolt? Obviously, I want it to be thread-friendly.

You're going to want to use plenty of penetrant like "liquid wrench" or WD40. The most likely reason it broke was that the threads are really stuck. There are various extraction tools where you drill a properly-sized hole in the middle of the broken bolt and then insert the tool. The most common form is tapered and threaded in a reverse spiral from normal threads. As you screw it into the drilled hole (counter clockwise) it starts to bite in and will eventually back the broken bolt out. However, if there's not enough penetrant in place you can end up breaking the extraction tool which is hard steel and not easy to drill out.

[Victor Laury]

Mike, is it possible to remove the alternator mount from the engine block? If you can get to those bolts, you can have the whole thing out where you can extract the broken bolt on your bench.

[MDyer]

Victor, I think so... but even they are difficult to get to. I just finished removing the radiator and fan, and now have clear access to what remains of the damn bolt. I've got an hour invested in doing it this way, so I'm forging ahead.

Now I'm off to the hardware store to get the tool I need.

Thanks for the input. If I can't get it this way.:dead: , I'm going to follow your lead.

[Marty Rogan]

Sounds like you are going at it from the top an dhaving trouble. Seems like that area would be a whole lot more accessable from the bottom. Jack up the car, put on sturdy jack stands and go from there.

Marty

[Alfadog]

I had the same problem with a snapped bolt, except my car was running... I took it to a mechanic and he charged 10$ to take it out and put a new one in. Sometimes time is worth more than money!!!:cheeky:

[Ed]

Mike, when you buy the extraction tool buy the biggest one that will fit. What I mean is lets say the bolt is 6 mm wide. Don't drill it with a 1/8 drill bit and use a tiny little extraction tool. Use a drill bit almost the same diameter as the bolt, this way you can use an extractor that is as big as possible.

[beandip]

that's a joke , but that is what they are called. I have used a product called P B blaster to penetrate and is sooooo much better for remove rusted bolts it is truly amaizing. Like Ed said use the largest tool that will fit . BE AWARE THESE TOOLS ARE VARY HARD AND BRIDDLE AND WILL SNAP OFF IF YOU ARE NOT CAREFUL . Because they are so hard they are harder than a drill and tuff to remove if broken off in the hole so use caution. I recently received a can of KANO that is supposed to be the best in this type of problem . I havent had time to try it yet and I will pass on how it works ,.goos luck with the bolt . Gary

[Ben]

If you can get the alternater mount off the engine, and a replacement is easy to get. Ditch the one you have (complete with broken bolt) & put another one on!

[MDyer]

Trying to use the EZ Out, but don't think it's going to work.

Was impossible to drill on centerline, because the sheared bolt was ragged; my drill bit wanted to walk on me. Tried to go with the smallest drill I had to pilot, but no use.

Thought I'd try the EZ Out anyway. First one snapped, as predicted by many here. Drilled larger hole, but now am afraid to apply any torque to it.

If I drill any larger (and off-center) I'll destroy the threads on the bracket. I could drill over size then hand tap the bracket, but I'm sure that the front and rear mounting holes on the alternator MUST be on same centerline.

Thank God for parts car, I'll get my bracket from it.

Delays and diversions.... I'm getting used to it:stupid:

[MDyer]

2 Many Z's private messaged me to try a "left-handed" drill bit first, since it might "catch" the sheared bolt and back it out. "Try this before buying the EZ Out".

I now know why he PM'd me. If he posted it on the board, somebody would blow the whistle.

Damn, I'm in the machine tool business, and I still fell for it. Made sense to me that there would be drills with CCW flutes. Oh well, the guy at Lowe's got a charge out of it.:stupid:

[2ManyZs]

It's wasn't a joke Mike.....

From the Northern Tool Automotive Equipment & Supply Catalog: