wondering after the chain is off what is the proceder to get it in time again or is there one just wondering. Thanks guys new to the Zworld only owned mine for 2years now and the first year never had to mess with it. now im putting the F54 in it and need a little help.Thanks

The best thing I could tell you to do is get a shop manual. Hayes, Chilton or other. They break it down for you pretty good and the manual is worth it's weight in gold.

In addition to what ED said. A white-out pen is worth its wieght in gold as well when taking things off. Unless you are changing the cam or something, make marks so you know it's going on back the way it was. Thats just for future reference i guess :stupid:

OK- here we go from memory.

With the front engine cover/cam gear/chain all removed.

turn the crank manualy untill the #1 piston is at tdc of compression stroke - you will know that it IS the comp. stroke if the timing marks on the crank pully are at about 10 - 11 o'clock position, and the timing "dot" on the crank gear is on the drivers side.

Turn the cam manualy untill both valves have just closed on the #1 cyl. then put the cam gear on - lining the dowel with dowel hole #1. look thru the cast hole in the gear to align the notch in the gear hub with the 'dash' mark on the cam keeper - rotate the cam untill they align perfictly. both valves of #1 should have remained closed the whole time - as only a short distance of rotation was req'd.

Remove the cam gear.

Install the chain on the crank gear - align the bright link with the 'dot' on the gear. NOTE: there are 2 bright links (22 links apart on the short side) they both need to be on the drivers side of cam/crank.

Reinstall the cam gear with the chain and chain tentioner in place.

the bright link on the cam end of the chain should be aligned with position 1 on the cam gear.

Install the front cover carefully - do not damage any gaskets.

Check / Referance your manual for clarification along the way.

- Jeff

When I put my engine back together, I installed the oil pump to distributor drive shaft exactly as shown in the book, with the offset tang at 11:25(if I remember right). Looked perfect when compared to the picture. But when I tried to start the engine, it sputtered and backfired and wouldn't stay running. I finally advanced the shaft one tooth and everything worked, but it didn't look like the picture. More like 10:20 to me. Must be my glasses. Or maybe because I learned to tell time on a roman numeral clock and became confused.

Put the #1 pistion at TDC and remove the distributor - the drive tab should be at about a 5 deg. angle,(up to your right), to the mounting bolt holes.If not then remove and replace the oil pump as nessasarry to get it there. Once you have that on and the distributor replaced - line up the static timing marks on the distributor base plate. The engine should start in this position.

- Jeff

Well it hurt the motor at all if the timing cahin guides and tentioner are a little scared or worn? What will happen if i run it like this priced a timing chain kit 195.00 ouch

Timing kit is only $80.00 in Victoria British catalog.

MSA has them for $96 as well. Both kits seem to be complete.

The timing chain kit in the Victoria British catalog has every thing needed behind the front engine cover. It has: Chain & both gears, both chain guides, both cover gaskets, the harmonic balance pully seal & the full chain tentioner assy.

All for $80 --- not bad at all

- Jeff

That beats the price they told me in Chico how do i get one of those catalogs and will it hurt the motor if ran with the old tentioner and guides

Order a free calaloge on line at Victoria British.com

As far as running with the old is concerned - you are taking the chance that the tensioner will pop out of its socket - that can happen if the chain is streched real bad & the tensioner surface is worn a lot. New with peace of mind for $80? - i would replace it all.

- Jeff