Float level advice, please.

[Captain Obvious]

6 hours ago, jonathanrussell said:

The fuel float level should remain fairly constant as long as the fuel pump can pump enough volume to keep up with consumption…..but without overwhelming the needle valve.

I'm no carb expert either, but my read is that the whole purpose of the float and the valve is to keep the level in the bowl constant under all conditions from idle to WOT and every point in between.

[Mark Maras]

42 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

I'm no carb expert either, but my read is that the whole purpose of the float and the valve is to keep the level in the bowl constant under all conditions from idle to WOT and every point in between.

"Level"  is at the top of the mixture screw jet. It's no more complicated than the innards of a toilet tank. If the water is too high, bend the float rod (or tab, SUS) down. Set the level where ever you want it. But the fuel (float) level is always best set at the top of the jet (2 1/2 turns down), with the car level. Then if you raise or lower the jet to fine tune the mixture the carbs will be sensitive to small adjustments. 

[DaveR]

Quick bump for a quick question. I am setting the carbs up (off the car for now) with a Ztherapy tune up kit.  The grose jets included must be different from the ones used back when they shot the video.

In the video, they describe a good starting setting to be 9/16" from the top of the float to the housing cover.  Unfortunately, the spring in my grose jet is not strong enough to support the tiny weight of the float resting on it. Because of this, I can't really set the float level based on this method.

I had assumed that the intention of that 9/16" setting was that it should be a 9/16" gap between the float and the housing at the point where the grose jet toggles from OPEN to CLOSED.

So I blew threw the grose jet, and moved it up and down until it shut off. I then set that shutoff points height to equal a 9/16" gap. So my grose jets initial setting prior to any experimentation is that 9/16" gap which straddles the actuation point.

Hope this gives me a decent start to fire up the car for the first time. This would make my fuel level 9/16" + height of the float, down from the top of the float housing cover.

 

Edited July 27, 2016 by DaveR

[siteunseen]

I set mine between the lid and the top of the floats.  Make sure the tops of the floats look level or parallel with the lids when you are done.  

[siteunseen]

You can take the spring out of the new valves and stretch it to make it stronger.  Are you sure your floats don't have fuel in them?

Blow and suck on the fuel inlet bung to check their operation before you put them back on.  With the pin up you can blow through, pin in you can not,

You can polish the aluminum pretty good with this stuff, 

[DaveR]

Errr, floats are REALLY light, so yes I am pretty sure there is no fuel in there. They are clean and not puffy.

I may need to take the spring out of the jet though, because right now there is a bit of travel on the plunger before actuation occurs. So with the pin up I can blow through, with the pin in slightly I can blow through, with the pin in deeper I cannot blow through.  My pin's first 1/16" - 1/8" or so of travel does not effect its ability to shut off.

Another interesting fact, I have to hold it downward to do my test properly... leading me to believe my spring isn't properly returning the float to an open state even with just the miniscule weight of the pin on it. Honestly, it's not impossible that there isn't a spring in there at all. I didn't check it out. 

I'll investigate the spring issue tonight, something definitely seems off in the jets.

Edited July 27, 2016 by DaveR

[siteunseen]

Yes, take it apart for sure.  They sent me a bad one and I had a helluva time trying to figure it out, my first time ever fooling with one.  I called and explained the deal and they overnighted one to me.  Good people to do business with.

You did notice the different heights between the front carb and the rear one right?  I think I ended up just adding one extra washer onto the front.  It needs to be deeper in the float chamber to make up for the fuel sloshing back when you accelerate.  If I remember right??? 

[Captain Obvious]

Support your local brewery I see:

Ol' Factory Pils - 5% ABV

Traditional in concept with a Two Roads twist…dry hops. We use a combination of classic German as well as American hop and malt varieties in our Pils. We renovated a 100 year-old factory building and designed this Pils to have “extra” aroma…so, pardon the pun! Crisp…refreshing…refined.

2015 GIBF silver medal- Continental Pilsner

[siteunseen]

3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Support your local brewery I see:

Ol' Factory Pils - 5% ABV

Traditional in concept with a Two Roads twist…dry hops. We use a combination of classic German as well as American hop and malt varieties in our Pils. We renovated a 100 year-old factory building and designed this Pils to have “extra” aroma…so, pardon the pun! Crisp…refreshing…refined.

2015 GIBF silver medal- Continental Pilsner

Another haircut.

[Captain Obvious]

Haha! OK, here's a translation:

"He likes good beer."

[DaveR]

Haha,

Actually i'm not a huge fan of the Pilsner. I much prefer their IPA and Double IPA. 

[siteunseen]

2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Haha! OK, here's a translation:

"He likes good beer."

I thought that was some type of cleaning solution in that can!