I plan to use this in my 75 280z. The oil gutter was broken, oil leaked out from the shifter. I am in the process of replacing the missing gutter, put on some new seals while I have it apart and examine the bearings and gears. Could use some help on the oil seal on the shift rod.

 

This link should help you visualize a little bit better.  I think that o-ring is the only seal and it's basically a dust seal combo oil seal.  Oil can only get up there by splashing and capillary, no real driving force for it to leak.  Doesn't look there is an internal seal, so your "just leave it" idea may be the way to go.

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control/5-speed

That chipped gear is your reverse gear.  You'll probably only notice it as a grindy growly noise when in reverse, I think, but it might be difficult to engage since there is no synchro, just two straight cut gears meshing.  You'll be mashing those damaged teeth against another set of damaged teeth.  Pretty common I think, although yours is pretty bad.  Comes from angry people with bad clutch control cylinders.  I found a chunk of reverse on my 4 speed's drain plug magnet.  Not from me, from a PO.

You want to look at the points of the dog teeth on the gears, and the internal teeth on the couplers, and the points on the synchros.  They should be symmetrical and sharp.

Eurodat has rebuilt a 5 speed, he'd have some good ideas.

tail housing bushing looks pretty chewed up (spiral grooved pressed in bushing at end of tail shaft extension). Searching turned up this

http://www.manualtransmissionpart.com/303066.html

Does this part look right?

Found a clearer pic of the oil seal I think maybe leaking

http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Nissan-Datsun-200SX-510-610-710-810-Maxima-1973-1984-Repair-Guide/Manual-Transmission/Transmission/_/P-0900c1528008305e

see fig 19

Edited April 10, 20168 yr by Dave WM

Actually that part is shown in the link I gave.  I missed it.  Part #19, coincidentally.  Seems like a lot of work.  It's at about the very highest driest point in the transmission.  But, while it's open...

32858-U6700

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-seal-lip~32858-u6700.html

Hi Dave,

If you want to replace the seals, buy genuine nissan. They are not expensive and the quality is good where as aftermarket can be just as good, but there is also the chance it isn't.

The seal Pos #19 cost me about €2,50 at my nissan dealer in 2012 and in the states it's cheaper.

If you want to replace the rear extension bushing. Google "Omega Machine & Tool P/N: 71411". It fits and the quality is excellent. Nissan never sold them as a replacable part, only complete extension housings.

I would replace the selector plastic bushings and the detent springs while you are at it. Makes gear changing feel much tighter and smoother. The springs and bushes will cost you less than $10,00.

I attached a list I made when I rebuilt my tranny. I wanted to by a reconditioned one, but when I saw what the parts cost, I decided to do it myself because I wanted genuine parts including the nissan synchros. Most recons are just a bearing kit and some seals.

Chas

 

Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

I googled the Omega bush to see if I could find it. They still make them.

http://sales.omegamachine.com/Nissan_FS5W71C_Extension_Housing_Bushing_p/71411.htm

Edited April 10, 20168 yr by EuroDat

EuroDat, any tips on removal and installation of that bushing?

I did order all the seals from Nissan, so I have good ones. I am on the hunt for the revers idler, turns out may have a supplier near by in Miramar FL.

ok got the rear ext pretty well sorted out.

Removed the striker lever from the striker rod by using a drift on the loosened nut thru the anti balk hole, it lined up perfectly. I just supported the opposite side of the striker lever so I would not transmit the force directly to the rod. Next I popped out the cover on the back of the shifter (a few lite taps of the shifter rod popped it right out. Replaced both the o ring (rock hard) and the seal. Used a long socket to seat the seal.

Removed the rear main seal then took another look at the bushing with the spiral oil groove. It was not as bad as I thought so I just used some 1000 grit and light oil to clean up some of the scoring. Note the oil gutter which was missing (stuck to the drain magnet) is the supply source of oil to this bushing, perhaps a at least some of the reason it was scored up. Cleaned up, and then replaced the rear seal using a block of wood to drive home.

replaced the o ring on the speedo gear housing. did  replace the seal in the speedo.

Decided AGAINST messing with that reverse gear, everything seems good on bearings and the rest of the gears, did not want to subject it to any of my attempts at removing the large staked nut.

So now I will get some oil resistant sealant and re attach the rear housing. Some how my seal package came in with out the front seal so that will have to wait.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 10, 20168 yr by Dave WM

oh and on more thing the reverse idler has 23t, which I could not find for a ZX when searching gears. Argh.

Dave,

When you said you couldn't find a 23T reverse idler for a ZX, did you mean that you looked for a 23T idler and could not find one for sale, or did you mean that you couldn't find a listing for a 23T reverse idler for a ZX and the listings you found say the ZX used a gear other than 23T?

I thought all the 5 speeds (Z and ZX alike) used 23T reverse idlers. So if you meant that you couldn't find a listing, I think something is wrong.

Edited April 11, 20168 yr by Captain Obvious
Dyslexics Of The World Untie!!

I thought I found one, but it was 22T, anyway I need have a 23t that has the chipped teeth. I have a inquiry out to a company to see if they have one. Hope to hear back Monday.

I might have one from an old junked 5 speed.  Used the case for a 71C swap.  I'll go count teeth and see what shape they're in.