Took it to a local transmission shop "DrZ auto" in winter garden, Spoke to a guy there that has work on these before, he looked over the gears and the synchos, did not think anything looked abused (other than the reverse idler, he echoed the same thing about non synch rear and could be clutch dragging.

Sorry, My bad. I mis read your post earlier.

You can measure the baukring clearance without dismantling the gears. It would give you and idea of wear. Here are some photos of my old ones. They look good, but the new Nissan synchros are so much better.

Third is a screen shot from manual with Baulk ring gap meassurement. Forthly, I had a basic bearing puller so I made this one to do the job.

To help remove the bearings you can keep the transmission as cool (don't leave it in the sun) as possible and warm the bearings or gears. Don't heat them with a gas torch, but a heat gun or something similar will help. You want about 60 Deg C temp difference to help ease it off. C3 bearings don't like bearing heated too much, but you will most probably replace them if the transmission turns out servicable.

Chas

about 1.3 mm I measured by applying pressure on the shift forks to push the brass "baulk ring" up firmly against the steel gear, measured the gap between the brass and steel.

 Glad you had someone look at it. Always good to get another opinion.

 Chas to the rescue. Great advice, Specs. AND homemade tools. Perfect.

 

1.3mm is getting close to minimum. The ones in the photo's measured 1.4mm and 3rd was touchy getting into gear. You can't see it in the photo's, but the inside has very fine grooves. The nissan rings were razor sharp. I found that out the hard way.

I don't think you will have to worry about selector wear. Measure all the gear end play clearance. If that is within specs then your selectors should be ok.

No action yet,  waiting on the counter shaft nut to get here (just shipped from MSA today). EuroDat any thing special about how to remove that nut? I presume a punch to lift up the pinned part of the nut? I am not going to attempt to remove until I have the replacement in my hands.

Edited April 16, 20168 yr by Dave WM

I used a old screwdriver to pry the tab out a bit. Had to grind the sides of the flat down to the same width as the groove, otherwise you could damage the thread along the shouder.

 

 

Got tired of waiting for the nut, so went ahead and removed it. Used a punch to flatten out the stake, Nut came off CCW easy.

gear puller on the gear worked out easy as well. Now on to the reverse idler, boy oh boy what a pita that was, broke my 1st circlip tool on the snap ring, got out a bigger one this time with fittings that would just barely fit the holes, well then that one broke leaving the tooth in the hole of the circlip. Finally I got some old big long nose pliers, custom ground the tip so I did not have to use the holes, and bingo got it. a little DNA left behind for good measure!!

Video soon.

 

Edited April 16, 20168 yr by Dave WM

Been there. Done that. Was wearing safety glasses and a groin cup, so it grew back. 

I can tell you there were a few choice words not captured on the video when that snap ring tool broke leaving a chunk of the jaw stuck in the hole. I was about ready to get medieval on it (well not really but I thought about it  )

I broke an EZ-out off in a drilled bolt a couple days ago. Spent about an hour getting that SOB hardened stub out of there so I could continue failing at getting the original bolt out.

I feel your pain.

5 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

 about ready to get medieval on it 

I tried to do that on mine but nothing happened.  The clip could not be destroyed, not even a hint that it was yielding.  Had to re-engage the brain.