1981 280zx 5 speed

[EuroDat]

The hole should face downwards. It there to prevent the selector detent from hydraulic locking or slow the spring action down when the spring cavity fills with oil.

You could try shimming the spring with flat washers to regain the tension. Now its out of the car its easy to play with different thickness washers and check the effect they have on it.

[Dave WM]

8 hours ago, EuroDat said:

The hole should face downwards. It there to prevent the selector detent from hydraulic locking or slow the spring action down when the spring cavity fills with oil.

You could try shimming the spring with flat washers to regain the tension. Now its out of the car its easy to play with different thickness washers and check the effect they have on it.

will do and will report back my findings.

[Dave WM]

Update, I cleaned up the replacement gear from Zed Head, inspected the other gears, all looked good so put it back together.Replace missing oil gutter, new gasket, o rings, seals.

found a rental bay in Kissimmee for 20$ per hour. hope to get out there in the coming weeks. Anybody in the central florida area that would like to tag along when I go let me know. they provide tools and lifts as well.

after messing with the shifter some I decided to return spring was ok. Got some MT90 in it, when on lift will replace the diff fluid as well. Only thing that may be an issue is the blue pinion for the speedo, pretty sure that is not the correct one for my car, the plan is to use the one that is in the 4 speed after I pull it out.

Well not wanting to mess with it a the bay, I went ahead and ordered a 17t pinion to but in the trans. 99% sure that is what its going to need. Courtesy had them for a reasonable amount.

 

 

Edited April 22, 2016 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

Did you run it through the gears and spin the shafts?  It's possible to put them back together with two gears engaged at the same time.

And the early, solid, shift levers tend to touch/obstruct at the base if used on the newer 5 speeds.  You'll see a little mark at the base of the lever, above the pin, in the front after some shifting in to 5th.  Some people grind or file some clearance.  Might be easiest to do while it's out.  There are pictures on the site somewhere, it's been discussed.

Fingers crossed for the mystery transmission...

[Dave WM]

delete double post

 

Edited April 22, 2016 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

The mystery trans has the bent shifter on it just like the 4 speed. AND it had the 3.70 pinion. Really not sure what I have but will find out soon.

Guess I have a 5sp MT now (mystery transmission)

Edited April 22, 2016 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

You never did show a picture of the whole unit.  Early and late have differences, easiest to see is the number of exhaust hangers on the tail housing.   I'm going to guess it's a 79 5 speed.  79 had a whole range of diff ratios available, including 3.7.

[Dave WM]

here some pics

[Dave WM]

I had guess this was a 81 based on the ratios I got when turning the input shaft. Compared them to so info found on line. Key was the tall 1st (about 3.0) and OD was about .75

[Zed Head]

Looks like an 80's later model.  One exhaust hanger and the reverse lockout plug.  Should be a good one.  Here's a picture showing where the impingement happens.  That's not the shift lever the factory gave it, but it should work fine in your 280Z.

[Dave WM]

I remember reading about the low screw retainer on the speedo as well (to help id the trans). Got a new clutch fork rubber boot on the way as well. The shift bushings are good on it, and I have a good rubber on the 4speed shifter that I can transplant. I am using the paint can plastic top to keep the oil from leaking out the back, fit the ID of the seal perfect.

that reverse lock out works well I actually tried to go from 4th to Rev on the bench, not happening.

 

Edited April 22, 2016 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

for those that have done this how much room underneath did you need? the lift idea is good for me but may be hard to work into my schedule. I have 3 ton jack stands and the floor jack. My orig idea was to get it up high, remove the wheels (don't like them dangling on the struts) use the wheels and a safety catch under the car. Use the jack stands at the approved jack points prob with some large wood blocks to help distribute the load. then figure a way to support the engine (maybe another jack stand) and use the floor jack to hold the trans up after unbolting. While I have it out I will take a good look at the drive shaft. I understand they cant be rebuilt (u joints) but after this many years I have no idea what the condition is or even if its an orig drive shaft. I know I should mark the placement at the diff before removing.