1981 280zx 5 speed

[Zed Head]

Enough room to slide the transmission out from under the body is enough to get the job done.  Measure before setting your jack stands, it's a pain to realize you can't get the trans. out becuase the car's not high enough.

I used the scissor jack that came with the car to hold the back of the engine.  It's screw mechanism allows fine adjustment of the engine angle.  Don't let the fan hit the radiator if you tilt the back of the engine.

Somebody, CO maybe, says that they bench-pressed their transmission in to place.  You might start working out now if you plan to use that method.

Test fit your new pilot bushing on the nose of the transmission shaft before installing.  Tolerances seem rangy these days on store parts.  I had one that wouldn't fit in to the crankshaft, had to chip it out after it got stuck halfway.  A replacement fit fine.  Buy two and return one if you don't need it.

Consider the clutch, it might need replacement.

[Dave WM]

National Bushing PB-22 advance auto seems to be correct. Will pick up a few.

Edited April 22, 2016 by Dave WM

[Captain Obvious]

6 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Somebody, CO maybe, says that they bench-pressed their transmission in to place.

Not any more I don't!! That was many moons ago when I was young and indestructible.

At this point, if I got one of those "live or death" adrenaline rush events, I juuuuuussst might be able to roll it off my chest before I passed out from the pain.

[Mark Maras]

8 hours ago, Dave WM said:

for those that have done this how much room underneath did you need? 

 The height of the bellhousing with the trans on the floor, creeper, or whatever it's going to sit on when pushing and pulling from under the car. My first trans. removal on a Z, I dropped the trans, and realized the car was too low. No more blocks or stands to lift it farther and my only transportation was up on stands. I ended up pulling the bellhousing (series one) from the trans under the car and reassembling the two under the car. 

[Dave WM]

Got it. So I will make sure my replacement trans ON the floor jack, secured, will be able to get under the car, with a few inches to spare.

I am still thinking of going to the rent a bay for this. Only issue is if I run into a show stopper, I would rather be home in the garage. I saw a video think it was on a ZX, where the mechanic had to remove the exhaust at the manifold to get room. My car is a CA car with the cat and all the heat shields, so not sure if that will need to be dealt with. JIC I am hitting it with some PB today to start the process incase I have to unbolt it.

[Zed Head]

I haven't done one in quite a while but I seem to recall removing my exhaust system.  It looks like you can wiggle the trans.out but it's too close.  The FSM says to disconnect it from the manifold but doesn't say to remove it.  If you're not on a high lift though I think it gets in the way if you don't take it all the way off.  It hangs down and cuts off driver's side access.  Another gasket, maybe a broken stud.  Be careful.  Probably right to do it at home.

Edit - actually there's a whole extra set of small problems that can crop up on this job.  You'll probably want to remove the console to get to the shift lever.  That's a pain, and the three screws in the change pocket are probably rusted and one or two will break.  The exhaust system.  Might break a stud.  You'll probably  realize that the slave cylinder hose is cracked and ready to blow.  You might find it very difficult to get the hose broken free because it's been on for 35+ years.  You'll realize that the rear engine seal is leaking and decide to change it while you're there (it's easy).  

Here's a tip on the driveshaft bolts - put the wrench on the nut, jam it against the body of the car, and turn the driveshaft by sticking a screwdriver in the u-joint yoke.

Edited April 23, 2016 by Zed Head

[Dave WM]

Yep checked out on the console removal, did that when I replaced the bushings and rubber boot on the shift lever (4speed). Its those unexpected hang ups that worry me about the lift. I am reviewing my setup for jacks and stands etc.. started the PB blaster on the exhaust manifold bolts.

Edited April 24, 2016 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

Will the fork and sleeve in my 4sp 280 work with the 280zx 5 speed? I bought the transmission with out those parts. Would like to know before I start pulling transmissions.

[EuroDat]

What do you mean by fork and sleeve?

If you meant clutch fork and throw out bearing collar than its no issue. Use the one in the car, it wiil fit. You only get problems when you start mixing pressure plates with different collars. 

The bearings and the fork are all the same, only the series I has an extra tab for a return spring.

[Dave WM]

thanks EuroDat. I was looking at ebay and saw an add for clutch fork and bearing sleeve. There were two images and reference to a difference in the "bearing sleeve". this got me to thinking I may have an issue. I will just use the one that is currently in the car. I was thinking about getting ahead and having the new trans all setup so all I would do is bolt on the clutch slave.

here is the link

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-Datsun-280z-clutch-fork-Datsun-280z-clutch-lever-throwout-bearing-sleeve-/282018536128?hash=item41a99d5ac0:g:UHUAAOSw~oFXIEOK&vxp=mtr

Edited April 27, 2016 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

Nissan calls it a sleeve but many people call it a collar.  Outside versus inside.  It goes on the outside of the bearing, so collar seems more appropriate

You were looking at clutches in a different post.  If you get a new pressure plate (clutch cover) you need to make sure the sleeve/collar matches the plate.  Some kits come with a sleeve, some don't.  If you use your old pressure use the old sleeve.  You can press the bearing out and keep the sleeve.

[Dave WM]

31 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Nissan calls it a sleeve but many people call it a collar.  Outside versus inside.  It goes on the outside of the bearing, so collar seems more appropriate

You were looking at clutches in a different post.  If you get a new pressure plate (clutch cover) you need to make sure the sleeve/collar matches the plate.  Some kits come with a sleeve, some don't.  If you use your old pressure use the old sleeve.  You can press the bearing out and keep the sleeve.

Got it thanks guys.