I am working on installing a early 280zx engine into my 76 280z (threw a rod).  (N47 head, N/A, had power steering and injector cooler fan)

It has a power steering pulley on the crankshaft.  It has bolts holding it on, but there doesn't seem to be much room to remove these bolts while the pulleys are still on the engine.

I need to remove this outer pulley for fan clearance.  My 280z fan won't install with this pulley in the way.

I'd like to not remove the crankshaft bolt.  Also, will this pulley even come off after the 6 bolts are removed?  Or is there a large washer behind the crankshaft bolt holding it on?  Would removing this pulley afftect the spacing of all of this??   It is NOT a 280zx Turbo engine, which I've heard the power steering pulley cannot be removed.

My other option is to look into an electric fan I suppose.  

This is the part in question (not mine, mine is on the car...)

This outer pulley runs the power steering pump on some (all?) 280zx cars.  It needs to go for the fan to fit.  The FSM for ZXs isn't clear about if this pulley alone can be removed while the rest stay on the crankshaft.  

Edited April 10, 20168 yr by ramsesosirus
don't know what year 280zx engine it is, added pphoto

 I've not had one apart but just looking at it, the bolts are the only thing holding it on. No need for washers or nuts on the backside, plenty of casting to thread into. If it was attached any other way, they would have used fewer bolts.

 I don't understand the lack of room to get to the bolts. Seems like whatever is blocking access to the bolts would also block access to the crank bolt and pulley removal.

THe crank washer is verrrry close to the bolts.  The is about 1 or 2 mm between them, my sockets wont fit in between them.  That is what I mean.   Almost seems like I would have to use "thin walled sockets", if they exist.   Thanks for the reply

 I get it now. You may want to look for a thin wall socket at Harbor Freight. I found one there a while back on another project. Had to buy a set of cheap sockets to get the one I wanted. At least the set was inexpensive.

 Removing the crank bolt isn't a hard as it may seem. I'd remove the crank bolt & washer, leave the harmonic balancer on the crank, remove the six bolts, Remove the unwanted sheave, replace the washer and bolt, torque to specs.

I love Harbor Freight for that reason.  Great for tools you really only need once or sparingly!  I am mostly interested in anyone who has done this before, who might know more in detail what I'm looking at.  I wouldn't imagine the crank washer actually holds this pulley on, but it's hard to tell.  From the pic I posted, that would be a  very think overlap.  If, however, it did, then I would imagine the spacing of said crank bolt/washer would be too long without this pulley.

Surely others have put a 280zx engine into an earlier Z and know what I'm referring to here.  

I'm really trying to avoid removing anything I don't have to, especially if it's not necessary: these 40 year old cars tend to cause a lot of headaches with rust, broken bolts, etc...  as I'm sure you are aware 

Thanks

  The crank washer and bolt don't hold the pulley (sheave) on. I found one in my parts and took a look at it. I don't think you're going to find a socket thin enough to get to the six bolts without removing the washer first. 

IMO, Remove the crank bolt and washer. At that point you can either remove the sheave(pulley) from the harmonic balancer while it's on the crank or remove the whole assy. and separate them on your workbench (Good time to clean it up and mark the timing mark(s) in a contrasting color).

Cool, so you see what I mean with the spacing.  

So, let's say I remove the crank bolt/washer.  I assume I'm not going to be able to remove those bolts with it on the car, since the pulleys will spin freely on the crank?  

This is a good example of some poor engineering in my opinion.  A few millimeters is making a big difference!

Thanks for your help, I plan to look at the car again later.  I wonder how tight those pulley/sheave bolts are?  Possibly a wrench or something might be able to get on there... Hmm

The pulley won't spin because it has a keyway in it. The bolts aren't very large so I wouldn't expect them to be terribly tight

 I'd use a six point deep socket on the sheave bolts. They won't have much torque on them because of their size. Put the trans. in first, parking brake on. That should prevent the engine from turning while you're attacking the crank and the six bolts. 1/2" drive socket and a long breaker bar will ease loosening the crank bolt. 

2 hours ago, ramsesosirus said:

  I wouldn't imagine the crank washer actually holds this pulley on, but it's hard to tell.  From the pic I posted, that would be a  very think overlap.  If, however, it did, then I would imagine the spacing of said crank bolt/washer would be too long without this pulley.

 

 

 The crank bolt and washer DO hold the harmonic balancer to the end of the crankshaft. To prevent the h. balancer from turning independent of the crankshaft, they share a key.

 Here is how it is disassembled. Remove crankshaft bolt and washer. Remove six bolts, remove unwanted sheave (pulley). Reinstall the crank washer and the bolt, torque it to specs. The sheave (pulley) that you're removing has no effect on the crank bolt length.

While I was looking at it earlier, the thought came to my mind that I only needed about 1/2" or so more room.  Then I discovered that there are such things as fan spacers.  That may be another option.  I am just weary of taking more stuff apart that could potentially cause unneeded problems, especially if I don't have to.  I have time to think about it though..

I appreciate the replies.