About $26 at McMaster for an M20 x 1.5 right hand die.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#2573a81/=11xeukh

But I agree with Zed Head above... Unless you really, really mangled a number of threads, I'd just file the damaged portions roughly back into "shape" with a triangle file and call it a day. If the nut threads on smooth past the damaged spot(s), then you're good.

Outstanding product and I've used it for years to repair stub axle threads.  You start from the root of the thread and work up.  

http://www.nes.co.il/158905/Nes-External-Thread-Repair

 Thanks John

 I haven't seen those types of taps and dies before. I can think of hundreds of times I could have used those tools. A good share of my time spent on a repair is dealing with broken fasteners, corroded threads, etc. These will speed things up.

On Sunday, April 10, 2016 at 3:11 PM, zKars said:

They are 20 x 1.5 thread pitch.  Same on 70-83 stub axles regardless of splines.

 

Hello all, ba follow up on the stub axel thread repair.  I tried the file  repair and touch up for the damaged threads and got nowhere.  it was probly me or my crummy file. So I went on ebay and for $10.95 delivered to my door I got a 20mm thread repair die.  it came in 3days and it took all of 10 minutes to dd both stub axels.  Best $ spent and a real time saving and anti frustration device.  Sometimes just having the right tool pays for itself in one use and in this case it was a bargain.  On to the next task.

While on the stub axel subject, I have another question.  I wound up with two sets of distance pieces that live inside the rear hub between the bearings. One set is slightly shorter than the other and loosely fits over the axel the other may be a press fit but I an not sure.  The question is does anyone know if the 280zx 27 spline stub axels have  washer spacers on each end of the distance piece  like the 240z? My old pre microfiche parts book shows the washers for 70-73 z but I don't have a detailed parts book for a 280.  I tried to keep all the parts together when I pulled the axles but I may have lost them if they did exist at the time . I think once the companion flange is torqued to specs it jams the distance piece between the center races of the two bearings so any exess space would need to be filled with added spacers. Also when replacing the bearings the book says to stuff the housing full of grease.  Does anyone think it would be overkill to drill and tap the housing for a grease fitting while I have it out?  I had bought new axel bearings for the 240 many years ago but never installed them. They appear to be the same dimensionally as the ones off the 280 27 spline piece. New bearings have more than doubled in price so I would really like to use them as they were made in Japan back then. Any comments to any of this will be appreciated.

I don't know anything about the ZX axles, but I can provide a little input about greasing.

I think a zerk would be overkill, and I found from experience that you can actually over-grease the housing. First time I did bearings, I packed the entire inside of the housing with grease. I even used a long needle and injected grease into the recess after the whole thing was together until it oozed out from between the bearing balls. It was "stuffed full". Completely full. It was a mistake.

It was very very stiff and hard to rotate. So stiff, in fact, that I ended up taking it apart again and removing most of the grease. If you look at the amount of grease they put in there originally, you'll see that they didn't "stuff the housing full" of grease. I don't know if my experience is typical, but I packed the balls and added a little more for good measure and called it a day.

The distance piece is supposed to match the bearing race in the hub.  Its purpose is to match the inner race distance with the outer race distance, of the ball bearing assemblies.  Described in the RA chapter, I think.  Letters are stamped on the piece and the hub and should match.  There's also a table showing specifications.  Attached the 1982 chart.

Thanks guys.  I will have to agree about the zerk fitting. I guess if my old z bearings lasted as long as they did with no added grease the new ones should out last me and any mileage I will put on the car.  A good hi speed moly should do the trick.  Also thanks for the info on the distance pieces I will look for the stamped mark and see what I have.  Thanks