Parts Needed 72 240 Z

[grannyknot]

I don't think that AC controller is going to work...for anybody, ever again. The thin copper tube that comes from the controller attaches to the high pressure valve I think it is called, there is either a gas in that tube or maybe a vacuum  but once it is cut open it's no good. AC gurus jump in here.

[siteunseen]

Same thing as thermocoupler in a pilot light. I've always been told it  has some type of gas in it. If you bend it too tight or break it, no flow no mo!

 

[Patcon]

The copper line normally has a bulb at the end that sits against the evaporator in the dash unit. I assume it has gas in it. It could probably be repaired but might be cost prohibitive

[Zed Head]

It's a switch so it seems like you could test it with a meter and a freezer.  Should be normally closed, then open to turn off the compressor when it gets cold.

[Terrapin Z]

The end of the copper tube looks crimped shut. when tested for continuity, with the switch "off" (full counterclockwise) i get no continuity. (red / black)

With the switch "on" past the "click" (clockwise) I do get continuity.

It looks similar to the switch in my camper van for the fridge. The copper tube goes in the freezer and the switch controls the temp. 

When I pulled it out of the car the copper tube came out of the box mounted under the glove box by the blower motor. power and ground came red wire came from power and black line came from the compressor area. (which had been removed from the car. 

[KiraK]

Wow gang! cool feedback! Pun intended! I'm a rookie, and must admit, this is out of my league, so I need you Oh wizemen, to weigh in as it if this would work or not. Continued thoughts? Please...

K

[KiraK]

Terrapin Z,

Its a cool switch, if it works, would be great! Do you have any other parts on my list? Any other parts on my list? you mentioned you might have a few? Just checkin'... LMK. Thanks! 

BTW gang, anyone know where I can locate some R12 coolant refill? Otherwise, I'll have to make the switch. I'd rather delay at least a bit, so I can let my pocketbook play catch up! 

Thoughts, 

K

[Terrapin Z]

I do have some carbs I answered on your other thread. They will need some work, but if you have a good mechanic now it might still be less expensive than Z therapy plus the mechanics tuning. You mentioned you were on a budget.

My hatch strut seems to be marginal at best. The hatch falls down on me when left open. so it is probably no better than yours.

I do have a turn signal but it has very rust bolts and screws. the lens and backing are good but you would need to get the bolts and mounting hardware out first. 

That's it for my stash of parts. I hope I can test out this A/C switch an see if it will work for you. I am not sure if I can confirm it works without hooking it up to the system it needs to be on. If you want to try it and see, I would offer a refund if it does not work. 

[sweatybetty]

to test that switch, make a mark on the dial, and one on the other part so they line up when it "clicks". then put the whole thing in a freezer for a while. turn the dial and see if the marks still line up when it "clicks" if they do not, then the switch is probably still good.

[Captain Obvious]

And putting it another way... If the switching point (click) is at the same place when it comes out of the freezer as it was when it went in, then it means all the gas has leaked out. That thing works by balancing spring pressure against gas pressure, and the trick is that the gas pressure is supposed to change with temperature. But if all the gas has leaked out, it won't do that and the switching point won't be affected by temperature anymore.

[Zed Head]

13 hours ago, Terrapin Z said:

The end of the copper tube looks crimped shut. when tested for continuity, with the switch "off" (full counterclockwise) i get no continuity. (red / black)

With the switch "on" past the "click" (clockwise) I do get continuity.

I'd guess that "On" would be where you're letting the tube control the switch, and the fact that you get continuity right away means the gas has leaked.  Both "gas leaked out" and "gas cooled or condensed" would relieve pressure on the switch.  Not a good sign, it's just a plain old switch now.

I wonder f there's not a refrigeration equipment repair shop out there somewhere that can't refill those though.  Seems simple, in principle.

[Patcon]

I agree seems simple in principle. Best bet would be someone who works on window ac units. Also if you need it repaired, make sure it doesn't need length added. That would be the time to do it