KiraK Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share #13 Posted April 15, 2016 (edited) Hi Fellas!Lots of great advice and opinions here! As for what to do next, I thought I ought to go down to the shop and take a couple of quick pictures and have you weigh in on the next best direction to go... or after reading the Captains note...Stay right where I am! As I mentioned the car runs and tunes great! I was just under the impression I got hosed! Please feel free to weigh in with your thoughts, good or bad! I can take it! Here you go! By the way since build date seems to make a big difference, I also took a picture of the tag for you to review. She was a January Baby in 1972! See the post below for the picture. Thanks much! K Edited April 15, 2016 by KiraK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiraK Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share #14 Posted April 15, 2016 For some reason the Mfg tag didn't attatch to my above post and I couldn't edit it? So I'll try again down here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted April 15, 2016 Share #15 Posted April 15, 2016 Go buy a Lottery Ticket. It appears to me that you have the carbs you want and need. I can't quite tell from the pics. but they appear to be the early SUs. (Hitachis) The 4 screws refers to the number of screws that hold the dome down. You're good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KiraK Posted April 15, 2016 Author Share #16 Posted April 15, 2016 Hey Mark... so these are SU's? Based on my mfg date and the discussion above should they be flat tops? Or have they been switched out at some point and I have the domed ones now? Regardless, I'm doing my HAPPY dance if you are correct!!!! I'll try to get a better shot of them the next stop at the shop and you can give me your thoughts. Thanks for weighing in! What is the best way for me to identify exactly what I have? Thoughts? Thanks! K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted April 15, 2016 Share #17 Posted April 15, 2016 The car may have had flat top SUs on at one time but you don't want those even if they were original. They were a P.O.S. as far as tunability and driveability were concerned. Pull the air cleaner housing off and take a few pics as well as counting the screws in the dome. Looking forward to pics. Ztherapy.com has lots of info on the differences between the different models of SUs.. While you're there order the DVD. LET THE HAPPY DANCE CONTINUE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted April 15, 2016 Share #18 Posted April 15, 2016 I know little about the SU, but I believe they changed from 4 screw to 3 screw in mid (june/july) 1971. I think the 4 screws only had an E46 manifold without the water heating circuit to the carb body. The 3 screw took over until july 72. They had water heating and the E88 manifold. The flat tops started around August 72. The dates are not hard facts. There seems to be oddities that go against the rule when it comes to the evolution of these cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrapin Z Posted April 15, 2016 Share #19 Posted April 15, 2016 Happy Dance!! Kira, Those are good carbs weather they be 3 or 4 screw, they should work fine. After some 40+ years of use and time the bushings for the throttle butterfly get worn and the loose their seal. That makes them not run as well, erratic idle. That is the biggest "fix" for ZT carbs as he replaces the bushing with bearings. Some say the flat tops are a better performer, but are very hard to find parts for. Having only made them 1 year and then switching to fuel injection. They are often disregarded as an option for those other than period restorations. IMHO They also had the most EPA components on the system, ie: the ERG valve on the balance tube. You however, should be good to go with those sans any air leaks. Do get the ZT DVD and learn about them. even if you have someone else tune them first, it is always good to know a little something about these old cars when your out for a drive and something goes amiss. At least you can attempt a fix on the road to get you home. Get her going and enjoy the ride.......... TZ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jarvo2 Posted April 15, 2016 Share #20 Posted April 15, 2016 Agreed. Either rebuild them yourself or ship them off to zTherepy for their full service, its well worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted April 15, 2016 Share #21 Posted April 15, 2016 Excellent. What you have there is a "non-problem". Not only are those carbs what we refer to as SU's, but (from a distance) they even appear to be the correct variation for the year. If it runs great now, don't even worry about rebuilding. Focus on higher priority stuff! Another crisis averted! I'm Captain Obvious, and I'm a member of this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted April 15, 2016 Share #22 Posted April 15, 2016 2 hours ago, Terrapin Z said: Some say the flat tops are a better performer, but are very hard to find parts for. Having only made them 1 year and then switching to fuel injection. They are often disregarded as an option for those other than period restorations. They put flat tops on two years, not just one. The last year for the 240 (73), and the 74 260. I like the flat tops, but I'm not going to spend a lot of time fighting an upstream current. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted April 15, 2016 Share #23 Posted April 15, 2016 You have a great car from what I can see in the engine bay, it looks to be an unmolested and original ride. Touchdown! You may want to check the oil level in the carbs if you haven't already. I use the 3 in 1 Blue 20 weight. Any hardware store will have it and it only takes a teaspoon or so. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted April 15, 2016 Share #24 Posted April 15, 2016 Sorry. Couple follow-up thoughts/questions... What was it that originally made you think that you had the incorrect carbs on the car? Did the carbs look different before that shop changed the carbs back in 2013? Who was it that told you that you have knock-offs? The current shop? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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