Doing some preventative maintenance on my rear brakes, discovered I need to replace one of the flex lines.  The upper brake hose connection released with my flare wrench fine, but when I moved to the lower one, I discovered to my delight that the nut on the hard line going to the wheel cylinder had been slightly rounded, making the flare wrench slip.  Appears that the previous owner had tried to remove that line with a regular open end wrench and failed.

So, not wanting to have that issue on my car, I need to replace that short hard line that goes to the wheel cylinder as well as the flex line.  It appears that there is a difference between the 73 - 76 hard line and the 77 - 78 ones.  Does anyone know what the difference is, or if the earlier line can indeed be used on 77 ?

Here are the stainless ones from Zcardepot, 73 thru 76 only available.  The other option I have researched are the ones from Classic Tube.  They have the ones for 77 cars in stainless or OE.  Does anyone have any experience with them?  

I know that the wheel cylinders are different from early to late.  I have 78 rear brakes on my 76.  I'd guess that the location of the hole is different.  Can't remember for sure on the hole, but I'm certain the cylinders are different.  Single piston, sliding, versus double piston.

I also had to replace a line for the same reason, but I bent my own using a prefitted straight line from OReilly, and a board and some long wood screws as a bending fixture.  Just set the old line on the board and drive screws in at the bending points.  Then lay the new line in and bend it to fit the curve.  I measured the length of straight line I needed with a piece of string.  It wasn't difficult and actually kind of enjoyable.

A tip on getting the old fitting out, if you haven't - file new parallel flats on the nut and clamp a good pair of clean-jawed Vise-Grips on it.  If the problem nut is at the junction you can apply heat without too much concern.  It's all metal.  If it's at the cylinder, just spend a lot of time getting the grip tight on the nut.  If it starts to slip, stop and start over.  It will snap loose like it's breaking but won't .

Although the wheel cylinders are different, the hard line looks like it attaches in exactly the same place, just a different angle.  Looks to me that if it is only that subtle difference, the early line should work with just a slight bend to reform it to that angle.  (looked at the picture of the cylinders on MSA's site)

Ya, using generic line was my 3rd option.  Good tip on how to form it.  I don't need to remove the bad fitting because I am replacing the flex line, which was the original problem.  I will just take both out together, and them install the new flex & hard line to the wheel cylinder.

** Followup **

I ordered the replacement SS hard lines from ClassicTube, and after waiting 10 days with no notification or info from them, gave them a call back and was informed it would be about another 2 to 3 weeks.  Was originally told about 7 to 10 days, so cancelled the order and ordered the 73 thru 76 SS lines from Zcardepot.

I am happy to report that the only real difference is the slight downward angle of the inlet on the wheel cylinder.  Carefully shaped the SS line to accommodate the new angle and the result was a perfectly fitting new hard and flex line on the rear driver side.  Just need to order another Nissan flex line to do the passenger side.  The only catch to the new line is the SS fittings are 11mm as opposed to the standard 10mm size.  Now I have 9,10,11, &12mm flare wrenches.

Bottom line for 77 and 78 280z owners is the earlier rear SS line from Zcardepot works perfectly fine.      They look nice too and will probably never change in appearance.

Excellent. Last time I messed with that stuff, I bought the generic non-stainless stuff and cut to length. What you did looks like a much better solution!