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rear disc brake conversion

sweatybetty
sweatybetty
in Wheels & Brakes

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comment_493137

I haven't installed them yet, but I basically assembled the same kit with Parts from various Vendors. ( SilverMine Motors = SS Hoses, Rock Auto for Z31 rotors and Maxima Calipers, Z Car Depot for brackets?? ) ,  That's a decent price for the complete kit.

comment_493141

I installed the SilverMine kit for a friend and the rear calipers mount upside down. That makes it tricky to bleed them. I ended up swapping the left and right e-brake cable mounts on the calipers and mounted them with the bleeders up.

I wouldn't bother with the disc brake setup unless I was rebuilding the rear suspension and bearings and was taking everything apart anyway. Or if I felt like spending a lot of time and money on a project that's mostly for show.

Chuck

 

comment_493173

I think one port is machined for the hose and the bleeder port isn't. The kit came without directions. We had to ask for them. Their directions say to remove the caliper and rotor and orient the caliper with the bleeder at the high point, insert the rotor in the caliper and hold everything while you bleed the brakes. No, thanks. That's why I had to find a better way to mount it.

Chuck

 

comment_493174

I wondered about that.  The pciture of the swap kit, the first one, shows the hose attaching to what definitely looks like the bleed screw port though, so they found a way around it.  Why would they leave a big aggravation in their kit?  Don't get it.

I'd just stick apiece of wood between the pistons after rotating the caliper on one mounting bolt.  Doesn't matter what you're squeezing on.

Oh well, it's hard to put yourself in the customer's shoes sometimes.  At least they offer something.

comment_493178

Here's a cut and paste of the instructions...

  1. Ok here is the unique technique for bleeding the caliper. You hold the loaded caliper in you hand or on a platform that will hold it for you since it is heavy. Put the rotor in the caliper (remember to put the pads in first). Once the rotor is in the caliper. Position the whole caliper so the bleeding nipple in almost parallel to the input of the brake line. The nipple should be a little bit higher that the input of the brake line. The reason for this is to make the bubbles in the caliper rise to the output of the bleeding nipple.

  2. Once this position is in place now you can start bleeding the caliper.

  3. Once the caliper is bled and the pedal is firm, install the rotor and mount the caliper to the new bracket which should have already been installed.

comment_493182
27 minutes ago, cbuczesk said:

Here's a cut and paste of the instructions...

  1. Ok here is the unique technique for bleeding the caliper. You hold the loaded caliper in you hand or on a platform that will hold it for you since it is heavy. Put the rotor in the caliper (remember to put the pads in first). Once the rotor is in the caliper. Position the whole caliper so the bleeding nipple in almost parallel to the input of the brake line. The nipple should be a little bit higher that the input of the brake line. The reason for this is to make the bubbles in the caliper rise to the output of the bleeding nipple.

  2. Once this position is in place now you can start bleeding the caliper.

  3. Once the caliper is bled and the pedal is firm, install the rotor and mount the caliper to the new bracket which should have already been installed.

Uggghhh.  No thanks.  I plan to do some sort of disc upgrade on my race car.  It's not that the disc setup is better, but keeping the drums adjusted properly during an endurance race is a pain in the arse.  I'd much rather worry about other things during a race.

    • Like 1
    • 2 weeks later...
    comment_494224
    16 hours ago, sweatybetty said:

    well, i ordered the z car depot kit yesterday. ill keep you all posted once i get it

    Looking forward to your update.  After I get my electrical upgrades from Dave Irwin the rear disc from zcardepot.com is next.

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