1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[Patcon]

I finally made some more progress on the car. I have been trying to get the fuel line brackets plated properly and that has delayed progress. I just about have all of them properly plated.

I started on fuel lines and brakes lines today. The really long lines are a challenge. I have the old lines that I can duplicate from. I am using the Fedhill material. I should have made better pictures on disassembly. Having to reference the other z in the yard and motormans thread.

One trick I have come up with is to use blue tape to help duplicate the lines...

As I bend them I tape them together. Then I cut it to length when I get close to the end.

[Patcon]

Ok, so started working on the proportioning valve.Got the cap off but the piston doesn't want to come out. Any ideas? I have it soaking in PB blaster. I figured compressed air from the rear brake port, but am not hopeful...

[jfa.series1]

That's as far as I ever got with my old one - it was frozen solid, allowing NO fluid movement to the rear brakes.  I was able to reach the core with long-nose pliers and pull it out to its stop point, release it, repeat several times - no improvement.  I also soaked it in brake cleaner, no joy.  A buddy gave me one from his parts car that works and is on the car now.

[Zed Head]

I've been surprised at what those little ultrasonic cleaners will do.  Sometimes they do a lot, sometimes they don't do anything.

Vinegar as a derusting agent also.  Is that rust, or just old brake fluid goop?  If it's goop, maybe soak it in some carb cleaner.  Might destroy the rubber though, if there's rubber in there.

Or maybe use the same trick that's used for pilot bushings.  Pack grease in to the other end, put a cylinder that fills the hole in to it, and hit it with a hammer.  Create a burst of hydraulic pressure.

Edited January 15, 2018 by Zed Head

[grannyknot]

@Namerow

I think John did a complete complete tear down of a prop. valve not too long ago.

[Patcon]

It must be this thread

@Richard McDonel

So there must be a snap ring down in that crud I can't see. How strong is the spring??? Don't want it to go every where when I get the snap ring out...

[Namerow]

11 hours ago, Patcon said:

So there must be a snap ring down in that crud I can't see. How strong is the spring??? Don't want it to go every where when I get the snap ring out...

Post #60 in that thread provides a pretty good description of how to disassemble and reassemble.  Is there any way you could rig up a brake hose from front or rear wheel cylinder line of an active vehicle to the appropriate port of the valve and then use hydraulic pressure (press on the brake pedal) to blow the piston out?

[Patcon]

9 hours ago, Namerow said:

Post #60 in that thread provides a pretty good description of how to disassemble and reassemble.  Is there any way you could rig up a brake hose from front or rear wheel cylinder line of an active vehicle to the appropriate port of the valve and then use hydraulic pressure (press on the brake pedal) to blow the piston out?

I will look at it some more on Friday. I need to get the clip out and see where to go from there.

[Patcon]

So I made some more progress today. Worked on finalizing fuel and brake lines. Plated parts during this time. Disassembled the proportioning valve and the brake circuit switch

These are Fedhill lines. I flared all of these with an Eastwood flaring tool that was loaned to me by a generous car guy! I bent this in a multiple of ways. Hands and thumbs, the handle from the flaring tool, a piece of 1 1/2" pipe and this flaring tool shown below

Thanks Rich for the excellent photo documentation! @motorman7

Can some one ID this maser for me?

Also where does this bracket go?

I am guessing it goes on this section of line near the differential mount.

The Fedhill material shines up very easily with #0 steel wool. I then ragged it with some Eastwood satin Diamond Clear. We'll see how it ages...

 

Here is the proportioning valve broken down. I believe this is the original one but can't confirm it. It has an E4100 tag on it. Car parts manual says it should be E4101 so I am not positive. It also has the dimple seal at the top of it.

There is some corrosion on the bottom of the push rod. Don't know if this is gonna cause a problem or not????

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 21, 2018 by Patcon

[Patcon]

Here is the brake switch

Sorry about the rotation. When they upload they are oriented wrong. Tried several things but no luck. @Mike

Here is the brake switch. I was not sure if the little crack would be an issue, but everything appears to be ok. The parts plated out fine...since the copper didn't plate it is still isolated from the outside.

The central plunger is steel and appears to have a black chromate finish on it. The little grey hats are not steel. I'm not sure if they are metal or not. They might be aluminum.

There was something that l thought was grease in the center of the switch. Does that sound correct? Should I put grease in the center of the switch on reassembly?

Will it interfere with the circuit?

 

I would like to replace the o rings in the assembly. Any thoughts on which of these three would be the best for dealing with the brake fluid?

Also speaking of brake fluid, what are your all thoughts on what brake fluid to run. Since the system will be starting fresh I could run what ever I want. I like the idea of silicone fluid to make storage and maintenance easier. I have heard though that silicone doesn't do as well with heat, like track days. So which what would be best to use?

@gnosez

What is Jeff's proper user name?

[Patcon]

I also meant to say the brake and fuel lines are really a pain in the butt!

If you are going to replace your existing lines, straighten the existing lines the best you can and remove them without damaging them. Then you can use them as patterns. If you don't have a pattern line, then it works best to keep the material rolled up. If you are doing one of the long lines that goes into the engine bay, then start from the front. You can make the line working towards the rear and cut them to length after it is pretty much bent.

[Patcon]

I found these two links from rubber companies. Evidently EPDM is the choice for brake fluid

https://www.marcorubber.com/o-ring-material-quick-reference.htm

http://www.efunda.com/designStandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SM=none&SC=Brake Fluid

Lot's of info in there for all kinds of chemicals!