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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build


Patcon

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So I worked on the 240z tank some more. It had a some rusty patches on it from sitting outside. I used Eastwoods "Rust Dissolver" to get rid of most of that. Lots of repeated applications. I also used a wire brush on die grinder to speed things up but it gets all over you.

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The semi finished product. Some minor areas of paint to strip and a little more rust to deal with...

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I also emailed Caswell about their fuel tank sealer. It evidently doesn't have as many steps and is a 2 part system

 

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I've used Red Kote on two tanks and am very happy with them both.  I ran clear filters for quite awhile and not once have I seen any pink gas.  Bonzi Lon recommended it to me after doing his, also with good results.  The key according to him and now me is to let that stuff cure for at least a week.  I've read some bad reviews of Por-15 but I think it was user error.  People got in a hurry and it peeled loose.

Red Kote instructions, http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

 

Edited by siteunseen
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One of the interesting things about the Caswell sealer is they don't want the tank slick inside. Just knock the loose rust out and coat. As far as I know they don't even want the rust neutralized...

Still asking questions at this point, but it's interesting

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3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I've used Red Kote on two tanks and am very happy with them both.  I ran clear filters for quite awhile and not once have I seen any pink gas.  Bonzi Lon recommended it to me after doing his, also with good results.  The key according to him and now me is to let that stuff cure for at least a week.  I've read some bad reviews of Por-15 but I think it was user error.  People got in a hurry and it peeled loose.

Red Kote instructions, http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

 

Another vote here for Red Kote. Added bonus, it was available at O'Reilly and was maybe $30 for the quart, so easier and cheaper to get than stuff like POR15.

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9 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I don't have an answer to the torque spec, but I just wanted to commend you on your plating results.

Seems you're really getting the hang of it. Those look great.

 

9 hours ago, S30Driver said:

Agreed,  the results are great.

Thanks guys! I appreciate that. It keeps me humble. When I think I have it figured out, then I turn out something ugly. These did turn out nice though, and I redid some brake reservoir caps that look pretty good too.

11 hours ago, siteunseen said:

60 ft lbs according to this???

Cliff, I think that is for the bottom nut on to the stud. I am looking for the value for the stud into the body. The larger threads on the studs. Based on diameter of the threads I suspect the value is higher than 60...

 

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9 hours ago, charliekwin said:

Another vote here for Red Kote. Added bonus, it was available at O'Reilly and was maybe $30 for the quart, so easier and cheaper to get than stuff like POR15.

Thanks for that. I have looked at Red Kote. It would be nice to find a product that had consistent positive reviews. Many of the products have a fairly high percentage of negative reviews. Some of that might be user error and I suspect some of that is corporate warfare. Which makes it hard to find a good product and ruins the value of the review process

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This UK article might provide some additional insights into product differences and techniques for surface preparation...

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/tank_cleaning_and_sealing.html

You might even consider corresponding with the author, as he will offer the benefit of multiple experiences rather than just sample-sizes-of-one.

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9 hours ago, Namerow said:

This UK article might provide some additional insights into product differences and techniques for surface preparation...

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/tank_cleaning_and_sealing.html

You might even consider corresponding with the author, as he will offer the benefit of multiple experiences rather than just sample-sizes-of-one.

That does sound like a good kit.

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