1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[Captain Obvious]

Oh, and forgot...  About the bearing seating surfaces. What are the shiny spots at the 10:00 position (and other spots)? Are they dents IN or bumps OUT? I'm assuming they are dents inward, but figured I would check:

[Zed Head]

 

16 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Zed, Where on the casting is that mark? I've never looked for that mark. Is it in some rusty, crusty spot that is probably undecipherable at this time?

I haven't actually seen one myself.  I just read about it.  Looks like the top.  I think I see it...

[Patcon]

On 6/7/2018 at 10:25 AM, Captain Obvious said:

What are the shiny spots at the 10:00 position (and other spots)? Are they dents IN or bumps OUT? I'm assuming they are dents inward, but figured I would check:

I will check on this, with my magnifier

"B" mark on the hub

Would be really hard to find if the hub wasn't clean

[Captain Obvious]

Excellent. Thanks for the pics showing that mark. I've never seen that before.

So, especially with that confirmation of the mark on the hub, I'm pretty confident that things are going to be OK. Wiggle the calipers around with very light pressure until you can achieve the absolute lowest reading you can get. Get the two jaws perfectly opposite each other to avoid the hypotenuse measurement.

And check those shiny spots under magnification. In fact, I would use magnification on both sides of the hubs. Just to look for any anomalies or surprises. That's how I found the upset material on Matthews from the previous attempts to force the bearing in while misaligned. It was all nice and shiny looking to the naked eye, but I felt something funny with my finger. It wasn't until I looked with magnification that I was able to identify exactly what was going on in there.

I suspect yours are just dents inward from the pressure (which is fine), but it's worth the thirty seconds to double check.

[Zed Head]

Places that do a lot of bearing fitting often make test bearings by making the race dimensions smaller so that they drop in, instead of press in.  Sanding or grinding the outer surface of your old bearing for example.

If you have a belt sander you could probably do that to see if you have a dimension problem or a fitting problem.

[Patcon]

2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Excellent. Thanks for the pics showing that mark. I've never seen that before

Me neither. Good heads up from @Zed Head

[240260280]

I noticed #3 stamped on the pistons and #3 stamped beside each bore on the L26 I just rebuilt.  Factory sizing tricks so that you pull from the right bin.

[Patcon]

My oldest daughter spent most of the day with me trying to diagnose the boat and working on the Z. We got the headliner installed

I had sound mat on the ceiling but it didn't seem to be holding. So we stripped it and went straight onto the Lizard skin

 

A clothes pin helps a lot getting the material tucked in. I didn't work the adhesive all the way to the edge of the liner of the roof. That made it a little easier to tuck in

We hung some doors on the chassis

Lowered it down and hung 3 of the 4 struts on the car. Working towards getting it on the ground and ready for finished paint

It was a good day in the shop even though we didn't make any progress on the boat...

Edited June 17, 2018 by Patcon

[Patcon]

@Captain Obvious

I think I got the rear hubs sorted out. The second hub went together pretty good except we left the distance piece out the first time.

On the first hub, I smacked it with a hammer to make sure both sides were driven in all the way but it was still dragging some. On closer inspection, the inner grease seal wasn't driven in far enough and was dragging on the inside of the driven hub. Drove it in some more and it turns good now

[Captain Obvious]

Great! So you confirmed that leaving the distance piece out won't provide the proper bearing preload?  

About the grease seal rubbing, we did the same thing here with the first one. Didn't press it in far enough and it was rubbing some against the back of the yoke. Easy fix.

So were you able to ever get confirming distance measurements off the second hub before you put it together? Or once you saw that everything was "B" length, you just went for it?

In any event, I'm glad you got them together and feeling good. I bet you're happy that's over!

[Patcon]

8 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

So were you able to ever get confirming distance measurements off the second hub before you put it together? Or once you saw that everything was "B" length, you just went for it?

The "B" distance piece was right at the top of spec 2.069" if IRC. the hub was 2.071 - 2.073 depending on where you measure. So I assembled it. They are both torqued to 80 Ft Lbs and spin fine so I think I should be good to go from here. Yes one less problem is always good

[Patcon]

On another note, it appears I have the wrong caliper. I was under the impression that the Toyota 4 caliper was plug and play but I must have the wrong caliper. I been searching on Hybrid Z but the info is all over the place and very disjointed.

this is a caliper for an unvented disc.

When I line it up on the disc the ears on the caliper hit the ears on the strut tube instead of sliding behind them. I don't really want to run spacers. I believe this is the wrong caliper, correct? Evidently multiple calipers have the s12+8 stamping...