1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[Zed Head]

Punched JBR105 in to the Rockauto Part Number search.  even though it really looks like a 106.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/autospecialty/kelsey-hayes,JBR105,rotor,1896

[Patcon]

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Punched JBR105 in to the Rockauto Part Number search.  even though it really looks like a 106.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/autospecialty/kelsey-hayes,JBR105,rotor,1896

Came back as Nissan 310 & F10. These are drilled and I can't image those cars had this large of a rotor. Also none of the images that came up were drilled.

Any idea on a way to cross reference what I have?

[Patcon]

So worked on the brakes some more today

I received the disc from Rockauto

StopTech disc

          Centric 12742011 L&R this is a 240z disc that I am using with toyota 4 piston calipers

          Centric 12742016 L&R this is the 280zx rear disc used with the maxima caliper

I had to recoat my rear calipers. I had used caliper paint on these a fear yeas ago and this is what happened

So I stripped them down in the bead blaster and plated the hardware and repainted them. We will see if it last. If it doesn't I will zinc them or have them zinced by a vendor.

This is the pads I have for the rear

Here are the rears now

I may end up reversing the brake line bracket on top of the hub and run a hard line from there to the caliper but I am trying to get a custom SS line made up. The custom line would run from the chassis bracket straight to the caliper. I have a tip from Fedhill on a source. We will see how that goes. I contacted MSA about just buying their rear lines from the kit but they want $58 for each side just for the lines 

I have metal masters for the front. It appears that Axxis has been bought or merged with PBR. They don't offer a track ready pad for the 240z but they do for the Maxima rear caliper. That seems odd?

Here is a front caliper installed now that I have the right disc

I used the short "S" lines I made on the front and twisted them 90d and they seem to work good.

I have to find some shorter grade 8 bolts for the calipers. The ones I have are too long but are good place holders for now

 

Edited August 5, 2018 by Patcon

[Patcon]

So I contacted Fedhill about a thread size question and he supplied me with a name of a company that makes custom lines

Crown Peformance 760 599 0090

I got two custom lines made for the rear maxima calipers for like $60

I told them the length I wanted and the ends. Had them in like 3 or 4 days. Great service!

I got a 45 degree banjo fitting on the caliper end to make them fit a little better. I also got the banjo bolts and washers from them for a very reasonable price

 

 

[Patcon]

I have steering shaft that has this u-joint in it. You can read the number and it's for a needle bearing.

Some cool yellow paint from initial assembly and torquing

Broke the rack down today. Hard to get it disassembled and clean. 5 cans of brake cleaner!

Is there a way to get this tie rod disassembled with out destroying the joint? I can't really tell how they are manufactured

I have a LH thread tie rod end. Are those still available? I saw RH and LH available on Rockauto but I can't tell how they're threaded

[Patcon]

Well I've been working on building a serviceable brake booster in another thread, but I have also been working on refurbishing the steering rack. One of the issues is the bushings in each end of the rack. The passenger side was still pretty tight but the pinion end bushing was really sloppy. So I am working on sourcing those or possibly buy something close in size and reworking them. We'll see how that pans out.

The bushings on each end have a groove in them that is set the same on each end. How do you think that is supposed to work? How necessary do you think that groove is?

So I bought a pilot bearing puller from Summit Racing

Now coming up with a way to hold the steering tube and hooking the slide hammer up was an issue. The puller is threaded inside for 2 different and thread pitches but none of my 3 slide hammers have that size or pitch. so I "engineered it" a little. Used the 20" slide hammer

I heated the aluminum housing with heat gun first and it still took a good bit of "convincing" to come out. The other end was a no go! Tore the tool out of the bearing twice. that one will have to be cut out.

I had considered trying to add that groove to what ever bearings I can come up with, but my concern is they are not very thick and I could easily cut through one. Also I won't be able to make it a square cut groove. I would use a dremel tool to cut a U shaped trough in roughly the same pattern. Thoughts?

 

 

[grannyknot]

I think a U shaped trough would work just as well but would have to have that elliptical shape in order to provide lubrication to the circumference of the rack once the groove is packed with grease.

[Patcon]

2 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

I think a U shaped trough would work just as well but would have to have that elliptical shape in order to provide lubrication to the circumference of the rack once the groove is packed with grease.

I think I could make the elliptical shape. I still haven't quite figured out how that is supposed to work though

[grannyknot]

2 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I think I could make the elliptical shape. I still haven't quite figured out how that is supposed to work though

Take a pencil and draw that same ellipse pattern on the rack, you'll see that it covers almost 360 degrees of the rack and comes back to the same point. With grease packed into the tube inside of the bushing and in the bellows there is always lubrication for the rack.

[Captain Obvious]

Like so many other topics, seemingly simple things like that groove in the bearing can actually be quite complicated. Apparently the groove design is dependent on the application. Here's some interesting info on such things:
http://www.nationalbronze.com/News/410/

Now in the application of the steering rack where the lubrication is never replenished from a pressurized source, I'm not sure how important it is at all. I'm no bearing expert, but I'm not sure the exact shape of the groove would matter much in that application.

[Patcon]

That's an interesting read. Both bearings are clocked the same way on each end with the top of the ellipse a little down and towards the front of the car. Does that suggest that side of the rack is lightly loaded according to that article? On another note I got the other bushing out using the die grinder. It is a steel shell with a layer of brass inside it

[Patcon]

I bead blasted the rack tube. then I diamond cleared the aluminum end. It's interesting the other end is brazed on

Here is the bearing from the steering rack. I believe it is an NSK #8003

So I buffed up the inner tie rod hard chromed ends. Then I wrapped them up in electrical tape and plated the other ends

Here is some of the finished plating

I will have to redo one of the inner tie rods ends because I plated it too long and the threading is tight and I have the same problem on the adjustment screw but not too bad overall