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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build


Patcon

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2 hours ago, grannyknot said:

You could leave the hatch alone and shave a little bit off of the cylinder lock notch so it acommodates the thickness of the filler.

Is there room enough under the center panel to get a small bottle jack in there?

That's a good thought. I will look at the lock set. I am not sure there is enough metal there to make the slot wider. That's a good idea though.

No, on the bottle jack, but I own a porta-power. I have a small puck jack that might go into the space in the hatch. I am not sure the inner frame is strong enough to use as a backstop though. That is also an idea worth pursuing.

I didn't spend a lot of time trying to get the lock into the hatch Saturday because the contortions were killing me. I hope to look at it closer this coming weekend

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My hatch has a top-to-bottom curve that's roughly the same as the horizontal curve. I think that's how it should be, but my hatch was in fairly rough shape, so I'm probably no authority here. Actually, mine *was* flat when I started... Stud welder and shrinking disk didn't help, but I was very much learning on the fly. Replacing the missing pad behind the panel did the trick for me. That said, if you're happy with how it looks now, unfixing it might not be the best move. Grannyknot's suggestion to embiggen the lock sounds good to me.

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17 hours ago, charliekwin said:

My hatch has a top-to-bottom curve that's roughly the same as the horizontal curve. I think that's how it should be, but my hatch was in fairly rough shape, so I'm probably no authority here. Actually, mine *was* flat when I started... Stud welder and shrinking disk didn't help, but I was very much learning on the fly. Replacing the missing pad behind the panel did the trick for me. That said, if you're happy with how it looks now, unfixing it might not be the best move. Grannyknot's suggestion to embiggen the lock sounds good to me.

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Thanks for the feed back.

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So I think I made progress on the hatch. I rigged up a slide hammer with a wire loop

20181104_123043.jpg20181104_123046.jpg.

I had Cody hold the hatch down while I did the hammering. I did some shrinking with the shrinking disc and I over did it. I ended up with divots and had to dolly them back up some :facepalm:

Blocked it all down again. The circled spots are low now. I also used the same technique to lift the vent areas on the hatch.

20181104_135909.jpg

It's pretty thin now. It also looks like the lock will work now. I now have to do some filling and reprime the hatch and block it again with guide coat.

20181104_135936.jpg

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21 hours ago, lordkarma88 said:

STOP THE HAMMERING!

 


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Be mindful that not all of our members live in the hill country of Texas. We as a forum group have done a good job of not letting politics get in the way of our fellowship and enjoyment of our cars. We have members from all parts of the US and I am sure we are not monolithic in our political views, and we don't need to be to enjoy getting together and inhaling exhaust fumes. It would probably be best to leave posts that include politics or political views unsubmitted... Just my 2cents

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am in the midst of blocking the whole car and doing the fine filler work. There is always another spot you missed. I am still waiting on my Australian help to arrive! I also had a problem spot on one side of my hood. My hood is a 25 year old after market hood so it has some issues. One was at the upper left corner, it turned in significantly and showed badly against the inspection door.

20181125_150537.jpg

So I added to the edge with the welder. It wouldn't looked so bad if I had stripped the primer back further

20181125_162409.jpg

Shaped it down

20181126_165408.jpg

A little short strand fiberglass to seal it up. It might need a touch of filler, but it is much straighter

20181126_180203.jpg

Edited by Patcon
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