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1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build


Patcon

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On 1/6/2019 at 7:22 PM, Captain Obvious said:

And be real real real careful with this... One snag and you could be in big trouble!    :excl:

This is what my window trim look like after a split second of not being real careful with a bench polisher. Lucky no fingers were lost.

IMGP1038 (1).jpg

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Reminds me of when (forty years ago) I fell victim to bad shop practice (mine) and a pair of $9.99 spring compressors (borrowed) and had a fully-compressed front spring get loose and come whistling past my ear at probably 70 or 80 mph.  One inch.

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On 10/19/2019 at 8:14 PM, Namerow said:

Reminds me of when (forty years ago) I fell victim to bad shop practice (mine) and a pair of $9.99 spring compressors (borrowed) and had a fully-compressed front spring get loose and come whistling past my ear at probably 70 or 80 mph.  One inch.

Yeah, I did that, too. Stuff flew all over the place. Luckily I had it pointing away from me.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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3 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

I DID! Thanks. I’m not going to go as far as you did. I’m on the fence right now about using the new inner TREs I have or reusing the old ones. Probably the new ones.

I believe there is a test in the FSM that might help clarrify your direction

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On 10/23/2019 at 8:17 PM, Patcon said:

I believe there is a test in the FSM that might help clarrify your direction

All I see is the note on page ST 11:

“Check inner ball joint for play. When ball stud is worn and play in axial direction is excessive or joint is hard to swing, replace as complete unit.”

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I suspect the Japanese ones are better steel than most of the ones on the market currently but I could be wrong. You are referring to these

th?id=OIP.KDPyWjQx1ttbGBnF0gholwHaEK%26p

The ones I have appear to hard chrome on the spherical end with grease slots. I would think they should be very wear resistant.  I am not sure how the modern ones are manufactured. As long as you can adjust them and remove any slop and they move freely, I would reuse them

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4 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Regardless, I’m wondering if the Moog TREs I got are better. Does newer = better in this case, or is it original = better?

The 1970 FSM pages ST-10 & ST -11 have the procedures for "side rod ball" adjustment #9 in the exploded diagram. I didn't know how to paste them in here directly

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