1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

[Zed Head]

Here's 1978.

[Patcon]

 Do the 280z racks not have the ability to adjust tension on the side rod balls?

[Captain Obvious]

I don't know about the earlier ones, but the later tie rod ends aren't really "adjustable". That cup and spring ls a little bit of preload to try to keep things from rattling around in there, but the ball and socket joint itself is not adjustable and wears out.

See the four weld 'dots" around the perimeter of the TRE? Back when the thing was first produced, they ran a threaded collar down against the ball inside until there was no slop. Then they threaded on the slotted "spanner" collar to lock it in place, and then they welded the whole thing together. The weld has good penetration and it joins the slotted collar, the main body, and the threaded collar all together:

Problem is, the ball and socket joint inside wears as it moves around and eventually there will be slop in the tie rod end.

As an academic exercise, I dissected a very loose ball joint donated by @Mike W a while ago. For your viewing pleasure...

After you cut through the welds and crack the slotted collar loose:

Then I cut through the welds locking the threaded collar into the main body. PITA because the heat from the welding operation and the rapid cooling spot hardened the HAZ:

But after enough perseverance, I've got this, exposing the ball and socket joint inside the TRE body. You can see the dot of welded threaded material still remaining on the collar:

And here's how the ball and socket joint works:

It was educational, but the patient did not survive.

[Patcon]

Thanks for the necropsy

The 240z ends are multiple parts. You can thread them in for the correct tension then tighten the lock ring to hold it. Are the new Moogs the later style?

[Captain Obvious]

I've not messed with 240 tie rod ends, but the ones pictured above were used on 260's and 280's. Might be "late" 260's only.

So I've not held the Moog aftermarket stuff in my own two hands, but from the pictures, it appears they are completely different construction. Crimped together instead of threaded adjustment. Most of the new suspension components I've seen are constructed that way. Nobody uses anything threaded together anymore because it's too expensive to produce and it takes a brain to assemble correctly to the proper internal clearances. The crimped together stuff is easier to produce, and I'm sure the manufacturers would extoll the virtues as "more consistent", and "higher reliability".

My read is that the new aftermarket crimped together stuff is fine, but it's not adjustable either.

So, all that said... The 240 tie rod ends are still adjustable for internal play? They took that feature out in 74?

[Matthew Abate]

Yes, I think the Moogs I got are crimped together. From a quick tug my originals don’t feel like they have any play, but the crimped o es are stiff and tough to move around compared to them, even before I pulled them. It’s possible that they needed adjusting, but I’m ambivalent about whether they are “right.”

but no more need to hijack this thread. We should pick this back up in my build thread or CO’s rack thread.

Edited October 27, 2019 by Matthew Abate

[Patcon]

So I have been trying to make some progress, even though the paint booth is occupied. So I pulled out my 2 LS differentials. I have done some searching but haven't found the info I wanted.

I have a CLSD and a VLSD avaialble complete with drive shafts

Here is the VLSD from an 88 Shiro

 

Here is the CLSD on the bench with the driveshafts

I want to make up something like this. So I can use the finned cover

2

I tried to contact Savage 42 by PM at HybridZ but never got a response. He said he would post up dimensions in the thread I found this in. I was hoping to get some dimensions for a template, but I guess I will have to start from scratch. So any thoughts on this?

Also is there a way to inspect the condition of this diff before I install it?

 

[grannyknot]

Nice,  the steel plate he has use appears to be about the same dimensions as the stock transverse brace except the thickness of course, I guess he has made the upright braces longer to compensate for that.

I just noticed how the rear sway bar is attached so those uprights are custom.  I would start making some templates based on the stock parts and cut away or add until you have something that fits your needs.  Looks like a fun project.

[wheee!]

Love that diff.... it deserves a nice new moustache bar and diff brace bar!
Why build when you can buy for a reasonable price?

[Patcon]

Mark, I thought you might recommend that. I have considered the aluminum parts but they are not quite my thing and it's actually cheaper for me to build it.

Chris, I believe those are the ST sway bar mounts. So they will come with the new bar set when I order it

any ideas for inspecting the diff?

[Namerow]

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

any ideas for inspecting the diff

I wonder whether a Subaru owners' website might give you some help?  It's possible, though, that the limited-slip function can't be bench-tested.

[grannyknot]

12 hours ago, Patcon said:

any ideas for inspecting the diff?

You can take off the back cover and check the the wipe pattern gears, clean all the old muck out and listen while you spin it, should be fairly quite.

I took mine to a transmission/Diff shop and asked them to check it out.