I thought the 18" curved would be nice.

I thought about getting a 24" straight but there are almost no straight sections on the whole car. Im not even sure the doors are truly straight.

Have you seen my thread at autobody101?

Badsix is a very knowledgeable guy, I'm surprised more of the other top 5-6 guys haven't jumped in, maybe just because it's the holidays.  

Have you thought about re mixing the runny sealer and spray over top of the sanded sealer?  At least it's the same chemistry so much less likely to lift and then you wouldn't have to remove every bit of that sealer.  It's a tough call, by the time you sand all that sealer off you're going to have hit bare metal in so many places.  And like what Badsix says, that will be a lot of layers if you spray epoxy over the runny sealer.

8 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Badsix is a very knowledgeable guy, I'm surprised more of the other top 5-6 guys haven't jumped in, maybe just because it's the holidays.  

Have you thought about re mixing the runny sealer and spray over top of the sanded sealer?  At least it's the same chemistry so much less likely to lift and then you wouldn't have to remove every bit of that sealer.  It's a tough call, by the time you sand all that sealer off you're going to have hit bare metal in so many places.  And like what Badsix says, that will be a lot of layers if you spray epoxy over the runny sealer.

I think some of those guys don't have an answer for me. It's a unique problem...

I would have to replace the sealer with a new can because I removed too much of the liquid from the original can and not enough of the solids. So the sealer might be compromised at this point and the remainder of the can might be too. I also have the issue of trash still. Which is probably a sealer problem. I have a gallon of white base that Finishmaster's gave me to make up for my trouble, which was nice. I had about decide to run white Southern Poly epoxy over the car after I get it clean. Hopefully nothing will lift. I have found with my sanding the roof and quarters could be flatter. That is why I was asking about the acrylic boards.

It is a lot of coats and that was always going to be an issue with a white under coat. I might spot prime my sand throughs but there are already a bunch of them. So that might be impractical

21 hours ago, Patcon said:

I have a gallon of white base that Finishmaster's gave me to make up for my trouble

When you use that, first make a test spray on something.. before you do it on your car.  Then you know if it's still good and mixed right!

(Maybe your wheelbarrel needs a new paintjob! 🙂 )

So here is where I'm currently at

Most of the sealer is off the big surfaces. Still a lot of detail work to do! I just don't think I can get my shop up to temp and keep it there for painting. My shop is concrete filled block walls and floor. Totally uninsulated. There is an incredible amount of thermal mass to try to heat up and hold at temperature when it's 40dF outside. So I think for now I will switch gears and try to work on some other aspects of the car since it's too cold for me to paint. Possibly brakes, differential, drive train or other systems that I can bag up and keep clean while painting. This isn't my preferred method but it would allow some progress while it's cold outside...

When I do get back to paint, I have some new blocks to try and some Mirka PSA paper

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

So here is where I'm currently at

Most of the sealer is off the big surfaces. Still a lot of detail work to do! I just don't think I can get my shop up to temp and keep it there for painting. My shop is concrete filled block walls and floor. Totally uninsulated. There is an incredible amount of thermal mass to try to heat up and hold at temperature when it's 40dF outside. So I think for now I will switch gears and try to work on some other aspects of the car since it's too cold for me to paint. Possibly brakes, differential, drive train or other systems that I can bag up and keep clean while painting. This isn't my preferred method but it would allow some progress while it's cold outside...

When I do get back to paint, I have some new blocks to try and some Mirka PSA paper

Did you narrow down what happened with the sealer?

4 minutes ago, DC871F said:

Did you narrow down what happened with the sealer?

Not totally. I know it was mis-mixed but I dont know where the grit came from, chemical reaction or dirt...

So I switched gears today. Wasn't really motivated to do anything but finally did (I had Covid a week ago).

So I started working on the differential and differential brace to accommodate an LSD diff

I drew the transverse assembly member in AutoCAD

Then I plotted it out on my big plotter and mounted it to cardboard

I also got the bolts for the musache bar back in the chassis. I had asked a year or to ago for torque values but never got an answer so I Googled generic torque values. They're 18mm thread and I assume they're 8.8 so I torqued them at 130#'s with a little blue lock tight. I could have gone all the way up to 200#s supposedly but that seemed like enough.

I got the mustache bar hung. It's interesting you can't install it with all the other suspension in the way. I was able to thread the chassis bolts up and down so I didn't have to disassemble the suspension

 

Are these quarter windows the correct ones for a 240Z???

Well that sucks - Covid.  I'm coming to know too many people who are getting whacked by it.  I think my wife had it as well.  Every single symptom she had is a positive indicator.  Never went to the doctor since they just send you home anyway.  Glad to hear you're okay and back at the fun stuff!

Edited February 6, 20223 yr by ETI4K

And.. yes those are the right rear side windows.. 🙂 

(could also not find the numbers on how far you should torc the bolts from a mustashbar thingy.. 😉 ) so you did right to look for the standard nmbr for those bolt mm.. and use some blue stuff.

Will you make the brace out of steel or having it machined out of aluminum?