Here are a couple of reference pics I took of mine during disassembly, supporting what @jonbillsaid.

Thanks guys!

That's pefect

You should also put some gas resistant caulk on both sides of the rubber flap.  I didn't the first time I installed mine and I gas gas leaking out after a fill up.  Put in a thin layer of caulk and no more leaks for 20+ years!

Good idea!

So I did go ahead and pop this one. I used a towel just in case it wanted to go into multiple pieces. It broke pretty clean

I will try to glue it up later. I didn't feel like it today.

Worked on the LSD brace today

Got it in

I also hung the ST sway bars I've had for 5 years or so

I had to do some slight clearancing where it met the LSD brace.

The inner fenders had foam on them as I recall. Do they have it on both edges or just one edge?

 

Edited December 26, 20222 yr by Patcon

The splash guards mount directly to the body, no foam. The outer edge gets foam to seal it against the fender.

Great work on getting Lily back together!

Great work!

Thanks, Jim

I'm trying to be more diligent about getting something done every week. Would like to have a runner this summer. That's a pretty big hill to climb. We'll see...

So I bought the firewall kit from ZCarDepot. It was ok but it required some trimming. The square openings didn't seem big enough for the heater mount bosses. The round hole for the choke cable was missing, a couple of the mounting tabs in the lower corners and a couple of other minor little things. The firewall pad really needs to go in after you have all the grommets back in the firewall and before anything else.

On that note if you're going to use a spray on sound proofing like I did, Lizard Skin, then it would be best if you leave the perimeter of all the holes free of that. The extra thickness makes getting the grommets in the firewall much tougher. Also the bosses on the firewall, the accelerator pedal and a few other things need to be masked off too.

I also moved the snaps over to the new mat. I am assuming these help hold the floor mats in place? I am also unsure if they were shiny originally or black?

The nuts on the back are 7mm and you need a good JIS screwdriver for the other side. I buffed these out on the wheel. I think they are chrome over brass. Non metallic and started to look like I was buffing through the chrome.

 

 

I also worked on the E brake some. I am running Maxima rear calipers and getting a functioning E brake can be a challenge.

I cut some thin self adhesive foam to back the ebrake mechanism with to help seal that up

Then I worked on the cable to caliper connection. I tried it with the factory brackets

I just used a bolt to connect the cable to the caliper but there is not enough travel and the spring on the end of the Ebrake cable coil binds before the brake really locks down. Also there is no good way to lock the E brake cable into the thick bracket

So I came up with a plan.

Straighten the brackets

Then I will drill and tap them to accept the original E brake brackets like this

So Cody came over and straightened them for me. I need to weld them up a little bit. Dress them down and then figure out where I need to mount them. I may have to make another cable too. I may need a little more length than the factory cable has. If I make a new cable, I will weld some clevis pins on the ends to make the transition to the caliper easier. We'll see...

So I built up some areas on the brackets

Knocked them down and dressed them up

The holes distorted when I straightened them and I had to works on those a little bit

Drilled them after cutting off the end. I set the bracket as close to the bolt as possible

Tapped at M6

On the car

I am thinking I'm going to have to rework the parking brake cable. They are nowhere near being long enough to reach the mechanism. I have a plan for that though. Biggest concern is if there is enough travel in the E brake handle and whether I can preload the brake mechanism some without them dragging

Edited January 10, 20232 yr by Patcon